Safely moored stern to (Mediterranean style - anchor is off the bow and 2 stern lines to shore, need dinghy to get to shore) in Faua Boat Harbour, Nukualofa. Arrived 1545hrs Friday 22 June and a bit concerned being Friday afternoon we might not be cleared until Sat or even worse Mon. But thankfully Diane and Alan off SY Moonfleet who had got in that morning had the nous to pre-organised Quarantine and Immigration for us and we cleared with no problems at all by 1700. Then 30 minutes later were walking into town checking the lie of the land and heading for for a cool drink (Steinlager) and dinner with the Moonfleeters.
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| Musketelle at Faua Harbour, Nukualofa our first anchorage and first foreign port |
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| Fresh Mango !! |
Talk here is all about the crystal clear waters and we are really looking forward to perfecting snorkelling skills again among the reefs. Interestingly even scuba divers say the snorkelling is near as exciting in these parts. We are fast falling into the grips of Tongan Time but can still tell its coming up lunchtime so will see what can be cooked up for the bunk-ridden crew. Good news finally sorted the refrigeration out today with input from aforementioned Aussie pilot and a local refrigeration engineer. Required a tweek rather than a hammer to fix.
ps The only real downer is we cannot view the Amcup races in Valencia and are relying on Alf for his txt messages and then the trusty BBC who devote 20 secs to the result. So whilst its a big thing in NZ its off the radar everywhere else.
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| Posing on beach Tongatapu |
Depart Nukualofa
Finally departed Nukualofa 2 weeks after arriving. 2 weeks largely devoted to ship housekeeping issues... refrigeration, headsail furler and taking on diesel fuel, freshwater and provisions. Still had time to visit the markets every other day for fresh produce pawpaw, bananas, toms and lettuce etc including fresh tuna from the fish market 100m from the dock. Our impressions of the main island Tongatapu are of an island obsessed with the trappings of the 21st century...cellphones, old Jap import cars but scant regard for the environment with litter a major problem. The other night it rained big and as a result our little boat harbour was literally full of plastic, bottles and all kinds of rubbish. We renamed it Foul Harbour. Our impressions of the Tongan people in Nukualofa is of a people stuck with a political system that benefits the privileged few but not the majority and the disproportionate power the church wields over the populace with the obvious backing of the political system. So back to our voyage of discovery...
06 July 2007
Fafa Island to Kelefesia
departed for Fafa Island 5 miles across the lagoon from Nukualofa for dinner in a classic island resort restaurant before leaving at midnight for the 50 mile overnight passage north to Kelefesia, our first of many islands en route to Vava'u. The Tongan group is a string of 170 odd islands spread roughly 180 miles south to north between 18 and 20 degress south of the equator. When we say islands some are little more than coral atolls producing breaking surf in the middle of the ocean. The big challenge is all the charts are pre-electronic and some even date from the 19th century and are out by up to 200 metres east to west meaning you could easily kiss an atoll if you are not 100% concentrating all the time. For this reason the best time to navigate is when the sun is highest between 1000 and 1400 each day and when the sun is behind you. So our days consist of up early, breakfast then ashore for an explore before sailing to the next island to anchor and settle in to watch the sunset (often stunning) then early dinner and to the bunk absolutely pooped.
07 July 2007
Kelefesia Island
We arrived at Kalefesia at 0900 Sat 07 Jul an hour early to enter the narrow pass in the surrounding coral reef marked by a gap in the breaking surf (called blind rollers because when you enter from the seaward side you cannot readily see they are breakers until you are on top ready to surf them). Decided with the blessing of the navigator to break the aforementioned 1000/1400 rule and motored straight into the lagoon in perfect conditions. One minute 600ft deep dark blue water then crystal clear bottom of white sand and coral out crops at 60ft deep. Just stunningly beautiful and instant calm without swell as we anchored, which was not before time for B as she had another terrible passage through the night as she did not take her seasick pills. All that day she was in a state and slept most of the day and did not surface until the next morning when we went ashore to explore. Kelefesia is a small high island about the size of Soames Is in Wellington Harbour half surrounded by white sand beach and half rocky bluffs. The luxuriant growth consists of coconut palms, pawpaw, banana and even lemon trees. On going ashore we were greeted by one of 2 brothers that call the island home. No one else is in residence and they live there for three weeks at a time then spend a week at nearby Nomuka Island catching up with family, selling their seafood and stocking up. Moses, the older brother, was only too keen for us to visit. Milk and Batteries were the price he was keen on extracting in return for the privilege and he asked very courteously. We had milk powder but not batteries so added 2 new hats/caps instead which he was very pleased with. When congratulated on his brilliant white teeth he asked for cream and brush so we added a new toothbrush and a new tube of Colgate to the list plus some rope. He showed us his pigs and dog with no name, his house and smokehouse where he was drying his squid for the Nukualofa markets and the absolute delicacy smoked squid heads which command a real premium. If those Japanese seafoodies in Tokyo could get a direct supply line going with Kelefesia, Moses would be onto a real winner and if Richard Branson could see this island P reckons its better than his Necker Island in the Caribbean. But this island belongs to Moses and his brother handed down through 4 generations when it was gifted by the then King George the 3rd of Tonga (they call all their Kings a local name as well as George due to their 18th century fixation with the British Royal family). Truth be known Moses' great great great grandfather probably gave his daughter to the King and the island was the payment !!! Tutt Tutt B wants P to edit that out.
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| Morning Arrival off Kelefesia Island |
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| Kelefesia Anchorage |
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| Paradise Found - Kelefesia |
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| Ditto |
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| Resident 'Moses' canoe on beach |
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| 'Moses Camp' drying octopus for market |
09 July 2007
Nomuka-iki Island, Tonga
After lunch we sailed the 25 miles north to Nomuka-iki Island and anchored 200m off the island in another nice anchorage but nothing as spectacular as Kelefesia. Just 1 mile to our north is another larger island Nomuka where Tasman, Cook and other explorers visited to stock up on fresh deep spring water and fresh produce. Cook visited this anchorage on each of his 3 voyages sometimes staying as long as 5 weeks giving his crew well earned r & r in a perfect tropical setting.
One night was enough for us as we were invaded by squadrons of mosquitoes intent on biting throughout the night irrespective of burning coils and sraying campaigns waged by B.
Next morning rowed ashore to walk on the beach and take in the fauna and bird life and a beached Korean squid boat before departing at noon on 20 mile passage north to Ha'afevu Island.
Nomuka-iki Island off-course fishing boat
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| Skipper with his late dads walking stick |
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| Divine blue water anchorage Nomuka-iti Is maybe Cooks Endeavour anchored in this spot too ? |
We are now anchored at Fa'afevu Island following a stunning motor sail in warm and sunny conditions passing reefs (some with high crashing waves and blowhole driven spray) and yet more islands including two volcanoes off to the west, one (extinct) rises 1000ft in a classic conical shape out of the sea. The other named Tofua is more pancake shaped and not as tall but is very active with steam blowing. Flames are apparently sometimes evident from this volcano at night and we have it 25 miles away on the stern so will look out for action tonight. Interestingly Tofua is the island off which the 'Mutiny on the Bounty' took place where Fletcher Christian and the mutineers put Capn Bligh and his officers in a longboat and cast them adrift.
Sailing waters Kingdom of Tonga.jpg)
Tonight anchored off Ha'afevu we had sundowners aboard the British yacht 'Moonfleet' and were joined by another couple from the Coromandel off their tiny 28 foot yacht 'Dayspring'. There is another kiwi yacht a day away named 'Desire' from Bluff with a family of 5 stoic Southlanders aboard. So we are not the only cruisers out here on the edge. We all communicate on the VHF (close range) or Single Side Band (long range).
If you navigate with Google Earth you can see where we are and where we are headed. Forecast for tomorrow 10 knot ESE Winds 28/29c Temp and with some luck our first fish as we try to commence fish killing operations with Alfs kit.
ps. no activity from the volcano last night.
11 July 2007
Pangai Island, Tonga
A really low island surround by large lagoons. The town of Pangai is the capital of the Ha'apai Group of islands and the third most important town in Tonga with all the government department offices in the heart, a dusty main street and a handful of shops with the fire station at one end and the district high school at the other. The town sits beside this quant little enclosed dock area within which the local fishing fleet and the visiting yachts are moored. The local island roll/on roll/off ferry (fondly known as the green vomit) rocks up every few days which attracts the locals as the biggest show in town. To top the scene off pigs and piglets roam and root all over the parish day and night with barking and fighting dogs in the night signalling another pig has met the jaws of the pack. Going for a walk at night we will need a spotlight because there is no street lighting.
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| Pangai Town Harbour |
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| Med Moored Pangai |
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| Ferry with the technicolor name |
We watched an All Black / Springbok game Sat night in the Mariners Cafe, we had 11 kiwis in our group, (boosted by the arrival of the Southlanders), 2 Brits (who backed the Boks), the cafe owner was a Yarpie (with a Polish wife) and a handful of others of unknown origin who clearly did not recognise the oval ball.
Next day being Sunday in Tonga absolutely nothing is happening on land or sea. The kids are not even allowed to swim, no boats go out, lots of church services with the bonus of melodic singing drifting out to the anchorage. When some children passed by later in the afternoon B turned the sound up and played them some old Maori songs that they could relate to and we finally got some animation going on the sabbeth.....how naughty Musketelle.
There are a surprising number of boats here - the Ha'apai's being among the lesser visited areas of Tonga, most boats going direct to Vava'u. The primary reason being lack of shelter from all but the SE and NW winds in Pangai's small harbour. We had one squall at Pangai where we had a spot of bother and had to up anchor and pull out in a hurry to avoid hitting the rocks with the rudder. We were Med moored again and being the last boat in had to settle for the worst spot meaning we could not drop our anchor in the best position so that when the squall arrived we were left with no option but to pull out and swing off the anchor for the night, but with the harbour so small we were vulnerable and in the way of the ferry. Luckily 'SY Lotus' a Dutch yacht departed so we were able to take their spot..
We are now anchored off Ha'ono Island 12 miles north of Pangai and have just been for a dusk snorkle and bat watching expedition. The bats here are big in size and number. The activity as they head off on their night foraging is impressive. We will be here until 10 or 11 tonight and then do a night sail north to the next group, Vava'u.
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| Magic Sunset waiting to sail north to Vavau |
29 July 2007
Hello and Goodbye from Vaavau, Tonga
Vava'u is the main tourist and sailing area in Tonga, full of cruising yachts and lots of charter yachts. The main town of Neiafu sits on a landlocked lagoon which is an old volcanic crater surrounded by high hills This anchorage is known throughout the Pacific as one of the best hurricane holes allowing yachts to anchor here year round. Sunsail has a large permanent charter fleet here to. The key attractions of Vava'u are the huge number of idyllic anchorages with superb snorkelling and diving and the whale watching due to its proximity to the deep Tonga Trench just to the east.
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| Neiafu - capital of the Vavau Group |
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| A typical Vavau limestone islet |
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| Swallows Cave Vavau |
Its now 2 months since we left Auckland and we are in planning mode for departure for the next leg to Fiji. We have filled our water tanks with hard scaly Neiafu water (and as luck would have it immediately after that there was a long tropical downpour which could have contributed nice rain water - but that's the breaks). We are planning to go into Neiafu today to fill our diesel tanks with duty free fuel which is available to departing vessels. Finally a quick run around the local markets for fresh vege and bread and we will then clear customs and immigration and be on our way to Fiji. We are headed for Savu Savu on Vanua Levu in northern Fiji a distance of 450 nautical miles NNW of Tonga. This will be a tropical sail between 18 and 16 degrees south of the equator so should be a pleasant cruise. The first 300 miles is open water then we enter the Fiji Group and the final 150 miles is among the reefs and islands. Once we are officially cleared from Tonga we will sail to the most westerly anchorage in the Vavau group and have a good nights sleep. Barbara will take her seasick pills and then on waking we will be off. Weather permitting of course.....
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| Evidence that the skipper really is getting in to island ways... in his lava-lava surfing on the laptop in saloon. A zillion miles from the other life !! |
