Aug 2012

MID PACIFIC

Still Here - Middle Ocean - Mid South East Pacific

113 Degrees West…. tracking west at 2 degrees south of the equator, due south of LA, north of Antarctica, west of Panama and east of Australia. Sort middle of nowhere and a place some would want to be and most certainly some would not.  For us, its part of the gameplan to sail around the orb and one of the big passages that’s got to be made.

Ordinary ocean Sunsets, Dawns, Swells and Weather

And some absolutely extraordinary Atomic Sunsets

What can you say about being at sea like this as day follows dawn, dusk follows day and night is either magical or mediocre depending on weather.  Magical if it’s a clear moonlit night or even more magical if its clear without the moon and the stars light your way playing games with phosphorescence in the water,  sometimes making it seem like you are riding a snowmobile across a snowfield instead of a yacht across the sea.  Mediocre if it’s too rough and windy and the movement is making you feel queasy.  More mediocre if its windless with swell and the sails are flapping and flopping around and the standing rigging is making all sorts of sounds that resonate through the boat.

Overlaying all is the need to be making progress to your destination otherwise frustration can start you questioning what you are doing out here.  But hopefully it never gets to this, as believe it or not there is simply so much going on in our little world afloat.  Out there the London Olympics are in full swing and whatever other major happenings and events are going on are  all beyond our horizon. We just have to keep ourselves alert and our floating home moving along, keep the batteries charged, the systems oiled and running and the weather reports coming through the satphone.

Everything revolves around our multiple nav systems below and the helm 

position up in the cockpit running on autopilot when not being difficult

Sleepy Time

Sailing non-stop means we have to get adequate sleep and under normal conditions for us that means a 3 hour on 3hour off watch system.  At times we have played with 4-hour watches but somehow keep coming back to three.  Supposedly Churchill and Thatcher were converts of the 4-hour sleep each 24 hours so maybe we should give it another try.  When we finish a passage it takes a few nights to re-adjust to the 8 hour sleep cycle. Whatever we never seem to get enough shut eye..... but we try.....

P looking dead tired having a coffee, B off watch on saloon couch, 
WiFi out to lunch

When its rough and tough we sometimes get it down to two-hour watches but that’s really hard on head and body. On extreme occasions we have had to stand watch for 6 to 12 hours at a time which on top of limited sleep is a big ask which takes you into the sleep deprivation zone.  We have to be prepared to go much longer if need be but at that point other contingency measures would come into play including de-powering the vessel and lying a hull until wind and wave conditions abate. Fortunately we have not had to do this yet.  

Its a World of Gribs

To help us maximize our sailing experience we rely on downloading weather reports via our Iridium Satphone at least once a day sometimes twice if some developing system is giving us concern.

The favored weather report we download is called a Grib, (whatever that acronym is short for).  We send a formatted email message to the automated weather provider requesting weather for the section of the planet we are sailing in and the compressed data comes back as an incoming email that we open.

Pic of Grib file overlayed on chartplotter screen

The Grib shows a series of little arrows over the area requested that show predicted wind direction and each arrow has little barbs that reflect wind velocity in increments of 5 or 10 knots and also wave height, swell direction and isobars.  It’s a simple and precise formatted system that predicts what will happen over 6-hour blocks for the following 3-5 days.  The cost to us is the USD$1.50 satphone call connection and we have found the system to be reliable and reasonably accurate. We rationalize it as the cost of peace of mind and security and safety.    

Long Passage Plusses

Whether it’s the clear sea air or the fact we have limited interaction without outside humanity on the long passage the stage is set for serious thoughts, planning and problem solving without interruption. It’s the perfect environment to get the head around a problem or opportunity.  Writing becomes easy and drawing and scheming fluid when you are relaxed and able to look at things from afar, sort of what it might be like out there in space looking down.  Sailing on the ocean with the surrounding horizon the same whichever direction you look all under the canopy of the ever-changing sky above is the ultimate big room for big ideas and thoughts.   And all oceans are different with the distance from land a sort of unspoken reality compared with say a short five-day passage. Raising thoughts and discussing ideas that we would not do in life ashore is a clear example of our environment impacting on our behavior.  Its also noticeable reading back emails that we clearly find energy at sea to solve things that might otherwise be backpedalled.  But maybe that’s not surprising as our survival can depend on finding solutions.  When you cannot just drive down to the hardware store or call a serviceman you are left with no option but to buckle down and find the fix.  Even though we are often sleep deprived its easy to come back to the problem or opportunity refreshed after a 3 hour catnap providing of course the ship is on course, the auto-pilot doing its thing and the weather fair.   Boil the jug make a cuppa and make things happen, works for us every time.

Wildlife Report

Well there is not much to report on the wildlife front out here in the southeast Pacific Ocean.  Since leaving Panama we have sighted a few sea birds, a few pods of dolphins, two killer whales, one shark and not much else except of course WiFi’s flying fish inbound with regularity whenever wind and waves are up. 

Dolphin parties on Musketelle’s bow are nice entertainment

WiFi’s biggest Flying Fish at 300mm long.  
Pacific FF are bigger than the Atlantic variety

On the humanity front we have sighted just two other vessels, a yacht and the same big tuna fishing boat sighted on two occasions 5 days apart. 

Yacht sighting
It was late afternoon of Day 8 when we sighted a yacht just 200 meters off sailing on starboard whilst we were on port. B was on watch reading her Kindle when she happened to look up to see this yacht on course for intercept in the middle of the ocean !!.  As it was the first vessel we had seen in a week so naturally B called P from his slumber to observe this momentous occasion. 

We ultimately talked on VHF radio to the skipper and it turns out they are 5 young guys from Europe taking a year off from studies and heading like us to Hiva Oa.   They asked us what was happening weather wise as their weather software program was playing up.  We downloaded a Grib and called them up a few hours later.  Also told them how to access our Saildocs weather source via Iridium.  We lost them after that as we headed in different directions but when we met up with them in Hiva Oa they thanked us for recommending the weather programme.

Transparent Fishing

The big tuna fishing boat we sighted on two occasions 800 miles apart was a real mystery boat that we ended up calling the NO boat, no flag of registration, no AIS, no response to our radio calls. All too cute we thought out here fishing in international waters under the radar without answering to anyone and maybe without complying with regulatory requirements and bi-catch rules.  Probably selling fish on the Internet to the highest bidder and then not paying any taxes because not under any jurisdiction.  Really cute. (P has a suspicious mind).

The Passage Continues…and ends

For the first 8 days of August the southeast tradewinds blew us along west at a very comfortable rate with respectable 160-mile days and the odd 180 and a peak of 196.  We were sailing constantly with the starboard side of the hull dipped in the water carrying a reefed mainsail to minimize back winding as we sped down waves with our high cut Yankee headsail on the forestay furler.  The wind was mostly on our aft port hip but progressively more right up the chuff out of the east but with the southeast cross well remaining, which made for very uncomfortable sailing for days on end.  Unlike the Atlantic where we set up two headsails wing and winging the swell conditions were not suited in this case so we persevered with the main and Yankee.

Our prediction of a 10 August arrival in Hiva Oa and 25 day overall passage from Panama was on target up to 08 August when the traditional south east trade winds crumped out giving way to the similar flukey conditions experienced during the first week between Panama and the Galapagos.  This was far from expected and far from normal but maybe attributable to the El Nino weather pattern trying to establish itself for the coming southern hemisphere summer. Whatever it is, it means we have a week of sloppy unpredictable low northeast wind coupled with high southeast swell conditions dramatically slowing our progress. The sum result of the final frustrating week is we do not arrive in Hiva Oa until15 August after a month at sea.  We were pooped but very relieved when we pulled in to the bay at Atuona on Hiva Oa, exactly 30 days and 20 hours after leaving Panama.

Land Ahoy

From a smudge on the dawn horizon 

to nice sunny conditions as we close on the high island without coral reef

Hiva Oa

Anchored just inside breakwater immediately beyond shore markers designating space required for the interisland cargo ship that calls every three weeks.   Just as well we did because on the second night at anchor we were awoken by the Aranui 3 dropping his anchor at 0400 in the morning just 50 metres from Musketelle.  It is a big cargo ship also carrying 150 tourists on its 10-day voyage round the outer islands of French Polynesia. The passengers were mostly retired Kiwis with some token Aussies and some French and Germans all having a great time on a working but very comfortable cargo vessel providing a different port of call every day.

Aranui 3 departing, and very close

On arrival we have had to check in to French Polynesia with the Gendarmerie, complete the requisite papers and more papers, and pay a bond equivalent to two one way air fares from Tahiti to NZ to guarantee we depart.  This involves paying NZD$3300 to the local bank for which we then request a refund from the same bank at port of departure from French Polynesia, which in our case will be Bora Bora.  Such is the price of being in paradise, but a more awkward system you could not design if you tried.  The papers completed at the bank took the single teller 20 minutes to complete as local customers waited or gave up waiting.  We apologised for inconveniencing them as we left and they all sort of smiled affirming this as a normal occurrence and this is Polynesia.

B did a mini shop at one of the local supermarkets where prices are high but acceptable given the distances involved in freighting goods in.  There were two price labels the red labels signifying a subsidised item, i.e. baby formula, toilet paper, stable food items etc.  A lady selling fresh vegetables from her truck on the main drag got the thumbs up and good support from the B purse.  Meanwhile P was focused on buying a trial six pack of the Papeete beer to get used to the taste as our Panama supplies are all but depleted.

We had a nice meal at a local restaurant selected on the basis of local customer support and it proved a winner. 

Local maiden dining in the restaurant we chose. 

Very impressed when P asked for a photo (or was that P very impressed ?)

Met a voluble New Caledonia born, Papeete based, entrepreneur at lunch, who updated P on the latest in local politics, tourism’s demise and the best products to export from and import to French Polynesia.  Donuts made in NZ and baked locally were his profit margin winner at the moment with locals not able to get enough of them. His major gripe was the value of the Australian and NZ dollars.  If he was worried about that we were more concerned to learn that diesel is about NZ$5.00 per litre. This confirmed our prior expectations and why we were reluctant to motor too much between Panama and Hiva Oa.  At this rate its NZD$3500 to fill our tanks !!.  There is the prospect of applying for duty free fuel in Papeete but based on the immigration model we dread the paper trail to get it.

Hiva Oa is a pretty and tidy little place nestled under tall peaks with luxuriant tropical vegetation all around. The valley running up from the anchorage is a major valley with multiple smaller side valleys with good sheltered growing areas for fruits and vegetables. Superb concrete road’s everywhere presumably constructed with a military use in mind if ever required.  It is worth remembering that these high islands are very strategically located in the eastern Pacific and France is clearly set on retaining them.  

Anchorage and surrounding countryside Autuona

P had to spend the best part of a day in Hiva Oa leaning out of the dink scraping the tough Gooseneck Barnacles from the waterline. Could not risk going in the murky harbour waters not only because of the murk but due to the reputed schooling sharks that call the bay home.  These incredibly tough barnacles had grown from waterborne slime in the ocean during the month we were at sea from Panama and all the other yachts in the anchorage had the same growth.

Goose-neck Barnacles threatening to overrun us and certainly slow us down

Departing Hiva Oa after 5 days we head across a small channel to the nearby island of Tahuata to anchor in isolation in a perfect bay with sandy beach and clear water.   With the trade-winds now back blowing out of the east we are well sheltered in this bay under the high peaks of Tahuata. We spend a couple of very relaxing days here.  Following the initial efforts in Hiva Oa this is where we successfully conducted the second round of barnacle removal and waterline cleaning. As we hauled up the anchor to depart a young manta ray glided by.

Departing Tahuata

Next stop the Tuamotu Atolls, the cluster of 20 low-lying atolls that block the path of the unwary to Tahiti.  In days gone by these were known as the ‘Dangerous Isles’ as so many vessels were wrecked upon the reefs and atolls that in good weather are only sighted 8/9 miles off and in bad weather practically invisible until you are on them and hear the surf .  It is believed the French navigator Bougainville (who voyaged through the Pacific ahead of James Cook) perished with his crew and caravelle on these atolls.  But with modern navigation kit including Radar and GPS we are much better equipped to sail these waters although it is still very risky particularly with the currents around the atolls in rough weather and the shallow and narrow entrances through the reefs into the lagoons.

Atoll Extol

The positives for visiting the atolls of the Tuamotu’s far outweigh the negatives and its well worth making the effort to navigate in and around these unique living treasures.  We decide to include two atolls in our passage to Papeete stopping first at Manihi.  The entrance at Passe Tairapa is timed for slack low water, as best we can make out.  The actual tide rise and fall is only 300mm which is negligible, but this is a deceiving factor because the extra volume of water that can be driven over the low reefs of the atoll by the prevailing trade-winds can mean much more water needs to exit the lagoon through the only exit pass we need to transit. 

Approaching Manihi and transiting Passe Tairapa

Luckily for us the wind is low and the sun is high in the sky as we approach and traverse the pass.  B on the bow on lookout for the shallows, directing P on the helm.  Quickly became evident we were a little early as the tide was still roaring out requiring full noise on ‘Henry’ (Ford).  As we got into the pass proper P was using all 90hp to slowly inch forward through the narrow fastest running section all the time keeping a close eye on the depth sounder. 

B on bow Bommie spotting approaching Manihi anchorage

Once through the pass we motored across the now deep lagoon with B still on the bow on lookout for the reefs coral bommies that can make a mess of the keel.  The weather forecast was showing a system with increased winds coming through over the next few days so we headed for the shelter of a palm topped atoll to the east of the pass and dropped the pick with a nice firm pull up. B noted it as a particularly firm pull up suggesting a snag, which of course P negated.

Manihi is a large oval shaped atoll about 19 miles long by 12 miles wide making the lagoon at least twice the size of Wellington Harbour. The primary commercial activity here is cultured black pearl farming on the reefs within the lagoon plus a small volume of tourism supported by a couple of resorts and an airport with daily flights to Papeete.

Rigging Check

Checking the standing rigging as P normally does every few days he came across a crack in the toggle connecting the lower rigging screw to the deck tang fitting for our starboard D1 (diagonal) sidestay. This surprising as the rigging is very sturdy for the size of the rig however we have certainly covered some miles and things happen.  The toggle is a specially machined piece made of high tensile stainless steel and, as the close-up photo shows, the fracture is right on the bend.  We are attempting to source replacement parts from New Zealand and as luck would have it P’s sister is flying up to join us in Papeete next week and hopefully she can bring them with her.

Rigging Toggle showing crack

A Story of Vice

In the meantime we have tensioned the trusty workbench vice over the  fitting to compress the toggle and lashed the vice around the deck fitting.  A bit Heath Robinson but sometimes you have to be.

This vice has a history having being given to P by Mark Gyles for use on Lion when she was in Sydney and contributed by Mark to a life at sea when he noticed how much P was enamoured by said little vice.

Vice tensioned over toggle

With a passing weather system disrupting things for a few days we swam and noodled around generally relaxing and enjoying the novelty of being at anchor in the flat waters of Manihi lagoon.

Racing across lagoon in dink for fresh Baguettes from local village 

WiFi relaxing in bunk as squall passes by and breakfast in bed in paradise, what a life

When we came to raise the anchor at 1500 hours in good sunlight guess what?  As B predicted we were firmly snagged around a coral bommie and no amount of maneuvering would release the anchor.  At 18 meters down this was well beyond the capability of rescue by P so we were relieved when another yachtie came over in his dink to lend a hand.  Being a young former French paratrooper he was more than happy to free-dive on it and could see the tangle, so we kitted him out with our recently acquired Scuba gear and Pony bottle and he was happy to untangle the mess. We insisted he take a bottle French Beaujolais for his troubles.

Murhpys Law

By this time 90 minutes had elapsed and the sun now that much lower in the sky so our ability to spot the shallows on our exit was very limited but we were committed to go (or was it that we didn’t want to re-anchor and possibly have the same problem the next day??). Whatever the reason, we did not follow rule no 1 – do not navigate in coral waters with the sun dead ahead.   When exiting an anchorage we normally simply retrace our track as recorded on the chartplotter but in this case B had not reduced the tracking down from the cross ocean configuration to close tracking and the course shown was an unusable straight line (minor domestic debate at this point). This meant we had to con our way back to the pass under visuals. Yeah right!  We got to within 100 metres of the pass entrance and then hit the edge of a coral reef that was only visible once we were on it – B on the bow saw it as it appeared underneath and lost the plot completely – only managing to gasp  “oh my …” to herself rather than bellow for full reverse. Not one of her better moments.  Given we were going only 3 knots we quickly stopped and reversed off and kept on our way.  Once we had turned away out of the sun the reef was sickeningly clear to see. We will dive on the keel in Rangiroa.

Exiting tide race in pass at Manihi

Next Stop The Worlds Largest Atoll

We are headed next for Rangiroa the largest of the Tuamotu atolls and hence the largest on the planet. Roughly the size of Lake Taupo at 30 mile long by 15 mile wide this teardrop shaped atoll has two wide entrance channels to the vast lagoon.

We are on an overnight passage headed for Passe de Tiputa and as luck would have it we arrive right on high slack water and literally sail in under headsail without even starting the engine. We had on approach seen quite a large ship exit through the pass 30 minutes earlier and as we got closer we noticed numerous small craft in the pass so any concerns about current were dispelled. As we got into the pass proper we could see they were dolphin spotting tourist boats, dive boats and local water taxi’s crossing back and forth from side to side.

Sailing into Rangiroa at slack water and anchoring off Kia Ora Resort

August ends for us at Rangiroa