What a difference a month makes when cruising in the Med with everything so close at hand…last day of June we were at Katacolon Greece, having visited the nearby Olympia site, home of the ancient Olympics. Fast forward a month to last day of July and we are in Italy anchored off Lipari Island in the volcanically active Aeolian group of islands, west of the toe of Italy and north of Sicily, which includes the permanently active Stromboli.
Why are we in the south of Italy when previously we were heading north up the Adriatic? Well the story is we decided to change the canvas as is our way.
To backtrack we spent the first two weeks of July noodling north through the Ionian Islands on the west coast of Greece cruising some very attractive waters and anchoring in some magic peaceful anchorages. The islands of Zakinthos, Cephalonia, Ithaca and Skorpios among the notable stops.
Skorpios Island holiday retreat of the Onnasis family
Skorpios Island looking south to Meganisi Is
Skipper showering on transom with Ships Cat on dink in background eager to get ashore and rumble and socialise with cats of Skorpios but unknown to WiFi this is a classy private retreat with security guards and wild non-pedigree Turkish Kedi would definitely not be welcome !!
Unplanned Grounding slows us for a few days
With a clean slate to date bar the odd kiss with the bottom since leaving NZ we had an unhappy experience meeting a concrete block or a rock in the Levkas Channel connecting the Southern and Northern Ionian Sea adjacent to mainland Greece.
Approaching the Levkas Channel from the South
Read the complete chapter and verse under Technical Asides at end of this posting.
Why and How
We were really upset by this episode and in reviewing why and how concluded it as a timely reality check suggesting we have maybe become a bit blasé’ and relaxed considering this Med cruising to be a bit of a walk in the park when its never that way any time any where with boats.
We chilled out for a few days anchoring at nearby Preveza where we visitied a boatyard for a liftout quote to check the damage only to be informed that the northern end of the Levkas channel has claimed a good number of yachts already this season!!
Back Underway
The further north we got the more crowded the waters and anchorages became as the European summer holidays kicked in. By the time we got to Corfu we were really amongst it in the knowledge our hitherto solitary cruising experiences would be a thing of the past……no more solo boat in a bay anchorages from here on.
The heat of summer was on Greece by the time we reached Corfu with political trouble on the streets in faraway Athens compared with tinder dry summer heat on the island of Corfu. We opted for a break in this attractive historic town for 5 days seeing the sights, dining out, taking WiFi to the vet, shopping and generally prepping for the haul up the Adriatic.
Ancient forts Corfu Town
But we were harbouring concerns at reports from fellow cruisers of the cost of anchorages and the hordes of holidaymakers we would encounter in Croatia and further north in Venice. Couple this with the erratic Adriatic weather systems and the costs for cruising permits possibly being up to $500 for our planned one-two week transit on top of some serious motoring time and we agreed we had both been to Venice so lets keep going west and use any extra time in either Portugal or Morocco.
So that was it, decision made; mid – July we set sail for the heel of Italy. Country #19 in our meandering.
Departing Corfu at dusk with Albanian coast just 5 miles ahead on starboard...we choose not to meander that way
WiFi in mid Aegean Sea spying on dolphins en route to Italy
Santa Maria Di Leuca
Mussolini’s “Welcome to Italy Steps” unfolded before us as we anchored in small port Santa Maria De Leuca on the bottom of the heel. These grand marble steps complete with waterfall down the middle and fountain at its base was built in the 30's as befitting a dictators statement, at at a time when sea travel was king. Clearly his vision of the primary entrance to Europe from the Suez Canal. Being our first port of call in Italy we have already noticed the different sounds of the Italians at play both ashore with their evening promenading and whizzing around in their speedboats as we sit on the deck of Musketelle. We are both looking forward to our proposed month in Italy, particularly the cuisine. It must be said however that many cruisers we have spoken to have not been that complimentary about cruising in Italian waters. We shall see for ourselves.
Mussolini's Marble Welcome to Italy Steps
Did not go ashore here because this is not an official landing point so after a nights rest sailed south across the Gulf of Taranto which forms the instep on the foot of Italy to the regional center of Crotone.
This 10 hour passage had us arriving early evening but a wind change scuppered that and saw us arriving at 3 or 4am the next morning.
Accosted at Sea in dead of night
Around midnight we were blinded by a fast moving spotlight that came out of nowhere on our starboard side and had us momentarily confused. B was up on deck and swears she had just done a scan of the horizon 30 seconds previously and even at close range she did not pick this vessel from the maze of distant shore lights. Anyway this vessel approaches and we eventually concluded they were Official and not Mafiaossio so that reduced blood pressure levels. The name on the side of the boat announced they were Guardia d’Finanzia (Finance Police) and here they were bellowing at us in Italian to stop and WiFi was beside herself in shock.
They not only wanted us to stop moving in the water but they yelled for us to stop the engine. P refused which did not help but eventually they came alongside once we had arranged fenders to stop their big battle grey noisy stinkpot damaging our topsides. Language difficulties aside we got the gist of their concerns…..no asylum seekers or refugees (only one Turkish cat) squared off the paper work and we were free to go. The fact we had still not landed in Italy was of no concern. One of the crew guys understood a bit of English so when asked why they did not pick us up on our AIS (Automatic Identification System) which shows vessel name and number he responded that their department does not have funding for such technology only the Guardia Costeria (Coast Guard) would have such technology.
What Customs and Immigration procedures
On arrival at Crotone we checked into a marina and asked about formalities with the local marinaros (dockers) and got an inquisitive response, Why ? not necessary. We persisted and were directed to the Guardia Costeria located in the grandest most modern office block in town who issued us with the requisite piece of paper full of stamps.
Getting our passports stamped to confirm our immigration status continues to be of no interest to anyone. We were unable to get them stamped entering or exiting Greece or again here on arrival in Italy. The fun will commence if we wanted to leave Europe on a flight and there is no record of us ever entering. Our conclusion is as long as we are on the boat all will be well. Lets hope so anyway, time will tell.
We stopped in Crotone for a few days and were disappointed by the quality of the Italian faire then opted to head further south across the appropriately named Golfo di Squillace which lived up to its name by giving us a good old 40 knot pasting with tempestuous seas from all directions reminding us that its not all plain sailing as we have become accustomed to.
A week ashore in Province of Calabria
Sailed onto the marina port of Rocella Ionica in the province of Calabria, still on the sole of Italy. We stopped here for a week in a marina that was charging just E20 per night for a berth and cool clear mountain water on tap. The local Guardia Muncipale (policeman) would come round every evening and issue a tax receipt which was all very efficient but in the 7 nights we were there we only paid for 4 because he only came on those evenings. We still wonder if the money was not going to the local police staff social club it was all so casual.
Gratis Bikes
A nice touch at this marina was a bike pool where you could take a bike for a few hours or all day or overnight for a gold coin donation. The marina also had a Pizzeria where upwards of a 100 plus locals came each evening to dine outdoors, clearly a summer only enterprise where mammoth pizzas sold by length, half meter or one meter at reasonable prices. But one visit was enough for us.
Calabria is not on the main tourist trails like Tuscany or the Amalfi Peninsula but it has much history and magnificent mountainous terrain. We hired a car for a few days and headed into the coastal hinterland to view unique ancient hilltop forts, villages, castles, churches and monasteries some dating from 2000bc. In contrast the modern day architecture on the coastal strip is positively disastrous and not at all what we would have expected from the design and fashion conscious Italian image portrayed elsewhere.
Calabria coastal hill countryside
Calabria Village scene
Mountain Village Calabria
Beautiful stone engraved street name...try pronouncing
Town Square Calabria
Its peak summer, very hot and everyone is out and about on the beaches on the water and on song. We are definitely enjoying Italy so far although surprisingly language is more of a difficulty than we anticipated. So far in the areas we have visited they mainly just speak Italian and we so far only understand a few words and numbers... Numero Uno, Chaio, Buongiorno, Pronto, Pizzeria and Gelato !!
Go Strait
A highlight of the last week of July is transiting the Straits of Messina separating the toe of Italy from the island of Sicily to the south. These straits are very busy with ferries, commercial traffic and fishing boats and leisure day boaters. Not quite Singapore Straits busy but more impressive as narrow with fast moving water and whirlpools in patches with steep mountainous hills on both sides including Mount Etna on Sicily. We spend the roughest night at anchor off the village of Scilla at the northwest end of the straits. The night includes our first rain for months, thunder and lightning and pre-dawn a big RIB with large outboard motors at a mooring just 50 meters from us decides to burst into flames.
Purpose designed Swordfishing boat in Messina Straits, with
a couple spotters at top of mast. Fish dont stand a chance
Big RIB on fire at Scilla
B is awoken by what sounds like cornflakes crackling to look out a port window and sees this huge RIB with 3 large outboards engulfed in flames. A case of overworked bilge pumps perhaps? we know not, but wouldn’t mind betting that might be the cause.
Departing Scilla NW end Messina Straits at dawn.
We are now officially in the Western Med
From Messina we entered the western Mediterranean which is another milestone for us and sailed direct to the Aoelian Islands where July comes to an end with a day motorscooting on Volcano Island and then across to nearby Lipari Island before heading for the worlds number one night fireworks display that performs most every night of the year on Stromboli as it has done for maybe thousands of years. The ancient mariners called it the lighthouse of the Mediterranean.
Bathers in hot Volcanic mud at Volcano Island..
and it was 40c that day!!
and it was 40c that day!!
View of Lipari Island from Volcano Island
Aeolian Islands with Stromboli puffing away at right...we will go there to watch the evening fireworks activity in a few days
July Technical asides
For every day we have in a splendid anchorage or just relaxing we seem to have a day of hassles to balance the books and remind us this cruising lark is a never ending challenge. We are relying on boat systems and gear to work constantly, in our case since 2007 !! It’s a challenge that goes with the territory and its not just Musketelle that has its ups and downs.
Unplanned Grounding
The Levkas Channel is a 4 mile long shallow and narrow channel separating Levkas Island from mainland Greece which should have been a breeze transiting south to north, and it was until the last 50 meters.
We entered the south end late morning in clear calm sunny conditions and motored north until anchoring mid transit off Levkas town for the unique pivoting road bridge to open on the hour.
Unique pivoting road bridge in Levkas Channel that
opens on the hour for boat traffic
opens on the hour for boat traffic
All good as we tagged along as the fourth of four boats in line astern to go between the pivoting bridge and then pass an old Venetian fort before reaching the channel exit with a sandy spit to port and a line of 6 red floating cans marking rocks to starboard.
Here we are approaching first of red marker cans on starboard
in line astern of the other 3 boats. Note the dredge crane
visible in sandspit if you enlarge pic.
in line astern of the other 3 boats. Note the dredge crane
visible in sandspit if you enlarge pic.
Further on with more marker cans in view and a handful
of late arriving southbound yachts waiting for the next opening.
A busy spot deserving of much better bouyage.
of late arriving southbound yachts waiting for the next opening.
A busy spot deserving of much better bouyage.
P determined the sandy side looked too shallow with a big dredge bucket crane working on the sandy spit and the starboard side deeper, so he sticks to starboard with the first of the red floating marker cans about 4 meters off the starboard side of Musketelle and whacko we go from 3.5 knots to zero !! absolute standstill with an almighty bang as she buries her bow in the water.
B standing on the aft deck taking pics stops herself being flung forward by grabbing the boom, P has his hands glued on the wheel and WiFi who luckily was not perched in her usual spot on the catrail was awoken from slumber on the back deck with her eyes popping out of her cranium. A second later we propelled forward to hit a second time before P reduced throttle and we bounced off the culprit obstacle.
The second hit propelled B forward with her new Canon camera smacking into a winch and chipping the outer lens casing but thankfully B was ok.
Well lets say there are groundings and hits. This was firmly in the hit corner reminding P of a similar hit aboard a certain big blue boat with an umarked coral reef in Fiji back in 95'.
There were 6 yachts waiting to enter the channel to go south as soon as we the last boat exited and they saw the whole thing. Turns out this part of the channel regularly claims victims and P simply got it wrong by not being over towards the sandy port side which would have only delivered a soft grounding as opposed to a king hit stop.
We anchored once we were a few hundred meters out into the bay to assess the situation. Down below a battery bank had moved and a number of loose items flung around the cabin but otherwise aok. P then dived on the keel to view a section of fiberglass 300mm long x 75mm deep carved out of the bottom leading edge of the keel with the fiberglass splayed out to each side providing a sort of mini wing keel.
The damage is consistent with the extreme bottom leading edge of the keel hitting a concrete block anchoring the red buoys rather than natural rough hewn rock, indicating that whilst the buoys might be over the rocks they are marking the concrete anchor blocks they are attached to by line are in the channel reducing its depth by whatever dimension the blocks measure. These manmade hazards are obviously not recorded on the charts and Musketelle has in P’s opinion simply hit one of these while navigating a safe distance from the rocks. Alternatively the light northerly breeze was blowing the cans beyond the rocks they were marking and we did in fact connect with a rock, but the nature of the impact suggests otherwise. The shallowest obstacle in the channel is marked at 2.5m and Musketelle draws 2.6m so it was only the extreme bottom 100mm of the keel that clipped which was rotten luck particularly when the other 3 boats ahead travelled much the same track unscathed. P was gutted.
Musketelle has an encapsulated keel filled with lead integral with the hull and we have concluded we only have cosmetic damage in the scale of things but we will now have to liftout sometime before crossing the Atlantic to double check this assessment and repair the chip. Buggar.
Rotten Luck for Swedes
In Crotone we moored nearby a Swedish couple who had a magnificent 52ft Najad just 3 years old. All looked well and we admired their lovely vessel commenting on it as the near perfect cruising vessel with all its latest technology and systems setups.
But one morning we awoke to frantic voices as their pride and joy was taking on water and literally sinking at the dock. If that was not enough a short time later they had a small fire aboard due to salt water wetted wiring which filled the cabins with smoke. Luckily for them some fast moving Italian fishermen with big fire extinguishers were on hand and saved the day and boat. Last we heard was their insurers were on top of the case smoothing the way but to really upset things a few days later the Najad boatbuilding yard in Stockholm announced it was going in bankruptcy so they could kiss goodbye any warranty claims. This cruising couple were rightfully not happy people particularly when allegedly the problem is directly attributable to modern production boat practices that see boat builders obsessed with weight reduction, possibly cutting corners and not maintaining quality control. Sounds so typical the boat may as well have originated from China not Scandinavia.
Bad Vibrations
Aboard Musketelle we have recently experienced a major vibration reflecting through the prop shaft that had the aft deck and the gantry and associated gear rattling musically but we could not readily identify the cause. Only to occurred while we were in gear motoring so concluded must be problem with shaft or propeller.
Having greased and serviced our beautifully engineered 3 blade feathering Maxprop just six weeks previously this was a concern.
We had visions of not getting the adjustable pitch right so dived on it but all seemed ok so eliminated the prop and focused on the shaft. Turning the shaft by hand there seemed no flexing at the flange connecting to gearbox and as shaft is solid 45mm diameter stainless steel it seemed unlikely so we revisited the problem focusing on the engine end.
P was convinced it must be connected with the rock hitting us in Levkas Channel so re-focuses on the engine mounts eventually finding the forward port engine mount is loose.
The lower out-of-sight adjustment nut under the mount being the culprit. He tightened it up which raised the engine and the music stopped. Phew... because we had visions of having to haul out immediately the vibration was so invasive.
Until next posting
