Vanuatu - Oct 2007

01 Oct 2007
Vanuatu Bound
We depart Musket Cove 30 Sept and slip out through the reef into big swells and strong winds around 30 kts gusting 34-36. Winds that ultimately will blast us all the way to Port Resolution, Tanna Island, Vanuatu in just 4 days. Sailing is great under 2 reefs in main, no genoa, lots of flying fish and frigate birds seem attracted to us. Beam swells become a little annoying but hey who cares when we are sailing fast direct to our destination.

02 Oct 2007
Ships Stuff
Copy of message to Alf in Wellington who thrives on helping P out with mechanical issues. This an example of a message that typifies some of the challenges that confront the cruising yachtsman who invariably is not an engineer but is having to learn fast.......

At sea Musket Cove, Fiji to Port Resolution, Vanuatu
Was surveying the engine compartment last night....bilge clean, everything was just sweet ie no oil leaks and the oil sender on song. On checking the water pump/alternator fan belt noticed it was a little slacker than should be so commenced tensioning process when noticed the whole mount was disconnecting from the engine and being held by one single threaded machine bolt which was just about completely out. In effect the alternator was firmly affixed to the mount but the mount which is also the fwd port engine mount was completely detached from the engine. So the engine was riding on only three engine mounts which maybe accounts for the stern gland leaking seawater. On closer analysis the mount should have 4 bolts connecting it to the engine but it appears there has only ever been one with 3 completely sheared off. I was able to find a new bolt in my box of tricks and fitted this and it is holding so far. To fix the overall problem will need an 'Easyout' to remove the sheared studs and line the engine up with the mount but this will have to wait until Australia. I will just keep a close eye on that single machine bolt. The thing that annoys me is the boys at Half Moon Bay Engineering made us up a new beefy alternator adjustment arm but did not notice anything wrong with the mount itself. The challenges and joys of cruising !!.

03 Oct 2007
Arrive Tanna Island, Vanuatu 0800hrs
At anchor at Port Resolution, Tanna Island, Vanuatu. Calling it a port is a bit of a misnomer as its just an open bay.  Initial impression there is not much here - so far have spotted some thatched huts and some natives on the beach. Apparently there is a village with a "yacht club" (read thatched hut) and a restaurant somewhere but not obvious. There is steam wafting from vents on the shore (very volcanic area). Anchorage is rolly and shallow - we are in 4.5 metres. If wind turns to between east and north apparently one has to leave as the swell is very bad due to the shallowness.  Forecast is thankfully for SE'sterlys.

Port Resolution  Tanna Island 

04 Oct 2007
Today we go to by 4x4 truck to the main town Lenakal on the other side of Tanna island to formally clear in. Leave boat at 7.00 am and get back at 5.00pm. The 4x4 taxi is a Mitsi ute with plank seating on the back tray for the passengers and a frame for a plastic sheet to be unfurled should it rain. We rode up front with "Sandy" the driver - bit of a squash as really only room for one. The tray was full of locals going to Lenakel for the day.

Leave the village on a dirt track (note not road) and then drove along beach then rejoin dirt track for some kms, passing through many small villages, all thoroughly traditional, no corrugated iron or wood in sight, all made out of woven coconut tree fronds wrapped around wooden branch frames. Everything very tidy, gardens all beautifully kept, sticks with barbed wire or all stick fences to keep the cows away from where they shouldn't be (surprising number of cows in very good condition, plus goats and pigs.

Power supply is by a few solar panels which are used to power the community phone and charge small batteries rather than provide any electricity for lighting etc. This is hilly country and we had to cross ridges to get from one side of the island to the other. This was to be a unique drive through lovely bush with attractive ferns and fantastic huge banyan trees. Suddenly we enter barren dry moonscape and then we were suddenly driving through an entire valley of volcanic ash - no road as such, just driving on this ash plain at the foot of Mt Yasur, the active volcano we hope to visit tonight.

The sides of Mt Yasur (which is only 361 metres high) are covered with ash, no rocks or vegetation visible on the mountainside at all. At the foot of the mountain are reddish and grey volcanic lava flows. After leaving the ash road we climb another ridge and join what can now be called a dirt road, the "government road" all the way into Lenakal, passing numerous villages, with men and women walking along the road carrying machetes to tend and gather crops for the day.

Got to Lenakel. Its 'Pay Day' for government employees apparently so a long queue at the bank to change NZD$ to Vatu. We spend some hours walking around the dusty town visiting Customs, Agriculture and Immigration which was nonsense but hey this is island bureacracy we will have to come to grips with. While P was at Customs B noticed the lady Immigation officer who had served us was now sitting round the back of the Government offices with some other women weaving roofing panels for a new house. Now that is multi-tasking.

We have lunch at a local coconut thatch hut cafe over looking the little harbour. The Lenakel supply ship was unloading at the 'wharf' - concrete structure stuck into the swelly bay, no protection at all. All supplies including timber planks being unloaded by hand, plank by plank, all day job. Lots of people in Lenakel.  Presumably because pay day and supply ship in. Nothing to buy!  Lots of little shops with absolutely nothing in them - a few canned goods, ubiquitous coca cola, batteries, some clothing, bare minimum. No "facilities" for tourists at all in the sense of cafes, place to buy a beer or anything!.

No public toilets (had to find some shrubbery - difficult as people everywhere). People are clearly poor although healthy. No western trappings although cellphone coverage is imminent. Most speak good English and many apparently speak good French which is a carryover from when Vanuatu was known as the New Hebrides in a condominium co-governed by the British and the French.  You can only imagine the nonsense that prevailed all at the expense of progress and future of the local populace.

On way back B sat up front, with Sandy's wife (even more of a squash than when Peter was there). Peter sat on the back with the locals plus their shopping. He was not overly comfortable. Stopped for carrots and cabbage en route. We were going to go up the mountain last night but got back too late so will do it tomorrow. We get back aboard Muskie absolutely pooped. Thank goodness the volcano excursion is now delayed until tomorrow.

Looking into the cauldron

Navigator taking pics

Silhouette of Skipper and Navigator

Nearly forgot to relate the story of the professional skipper of a big luxury motor yacht that caused a real show and pony act requiring our driver Sandy to immediately return to Port Resolution to pickup this guy because he was not ready when we had left at 0730.  Then when he could not get a seat in the front on the return was forced to ride on the back with P and the others which he was certainly not dressed for.  Our return was delayed over an hour because of him. We were not at all impressed at his cavalier and arrogant treatment of the locals but also the fact he had extended our day too.

07 Oct 2007
At sea en route Tanna / Port Vila
Its around 0800 local time Monday morning as we are motor sailing in a 10knot Easterly with sloppy seas. B is in the bunk and thankfully so far all is well on the sea sickness front which is surprising given the lumpy seas since we left Port Resolution at 1200 yesterday. P had a particularly bad day yesterday picking up on the AB's dumping and Australia's demise too at the Rugby World Cup. We were hoping for a trans-tasman final if that was possible. Reckon rugby has become a media game where even the players can only play to the next commercial break.

Back to life out on the edge....our four days at Port Resolution was really special. Saturday we walked all day first through the village to donate surplus clothing (Phantom and Ericcson t.shirts) and pens and paper to Chief Ronnie. This allowed us to then walk through the village at will. The village green is not mowed but very tidy and they all meet here to play sports, listen to music, dance, do handicrafts and in the evening on special occasions hang a big white sheet and watch videos like Shrek ? or old Westerns.

This Saturday morning the men were sitting around the green whilst the women and children were out hunting and gathering food..... fishing in the lake with bamboo rods, cutting greens with machetes, climbing trees to shake out pawpaw and mangoes, shang-eyes to kill bats and birds, spades to dig root crops. We walked for 2 hours on jungle tracks to Shark Bay to watch the sharks inside the reef. We then returned via the beach and by chance came across a little resort "Turtle Bay Resort" just 5 thatched hut bures and a restaurant run by an eccentric French couple and their 3 dogs. We could not help but stop to sample the fare. Inside guests from Grenoble (living in New Cal) and some Japanese. We enjoyed a cold drink Tuna salad (which I told B was meat) Fruit salad and local Tanna coffee. We walked the final hour back to the dinghy through the jungle so ending a magic day. Must add a highlight of the day was stopping on the track every 5 mins to dialogue with mothers and their children....all of whom spoke excellent English without grunting iduno and shrugging shoulders like young kiwi kids. The children either went to English or French language schools.

The finale to the day was the evening visit to the 361m Yasur Volcano. 1600 boarded a ute and trundled up the mountain to watch the sunset. Arrived on cue as the sun was setting and walked up to the crater rim...literally. And down deep down we looked into this abyss that was gurgling away with the hot ember rocks glowing around the inner perimeter. The rumbling increased then we experienced the first explosion as rocks flew skyward supported by an almighty boom before receding back down into the gurgling inferno. It rumbled on spewing low projectile glowing rocks that are glowing more by the minute as darkness arrives. Every few minutes there was a bigger than normal explosion as hot rocks would rocket like skywards. Luckily it was all blowing away from us with the regular SE wind. With complete darkness the crater was a huge glowing mass and we were just 150m from its edge on a high crater rim looking down into the fiery maelstrom. The sound emanating from the crater was surround sound boom box loud. After 60 minutes and numerous pics we headed back down convinced no New Years Eve pyrotechnic display will ever be the same. Interesting thing is there was absolutely no signage to keep back from the rim and no officials to police viewers. In the so called modern west you can just imagine the control freak mentality taking over the scene....its something we don't miss.

We headed back to the Yacht Club for a quite beer with the other yachties we shared the experience with and so ended a sublime day. Then it was up 0500 Sunday to try to listen to the aforementioned rugby match....and we are back where we started this e.

10 Oct 2007
Hello from Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu
Port Vila has been a really pleasant surprise. P last here circa 79 with Sarah and Jacinda and does not recognise the place. Australian influence is much greater here than NZ due to its proximity to the big country although there are seemingly just as many Kiwis here as Aussies. The previous French and British influence has resulted in a vibrant and colorful town with a people who we find pleasnt to deal with. In our mind it has Fiji beat hands down with systems and attitude to work and service refreshingly proactive rather than the general Pacific malaise. The church influence is much reduced compared with Tonga and Fiji. The shops and restaurants are first class although largely stocked by French goods which are super expensive. Was craving for a good read yesterday so purchased last Sats Sydney Morning Herald....nzd$11.00 !! Also got a can of L&P for $3 to get a taste of home.

We are anchored off the town in 20m of crystal clear water rather than taking a mooring bouy. The mooring bouy area has upwards of 100 vessels of all shapes and sizes so it is a busy place. We have a number of larger vessels in our immediate vicinity including a 100ft 3 masted barqentine that seems to be carrying passengers. A number of major resorts are within view of our mooring with associated water activities including jetskis, paragliding, floatplane and even a chopper on a barge all buzzing around frantically during daylight hours. The sunsets have been fantastic heralded by a conch shell booming from the nearby Iriki Is Resort each evening to be followed by local singing and dance music drifting over the bay. We have been going on mega walks around the town each day up hill and down dale then catching a local minibus for 100vatu (nzd1.30) when we have had enough. The 100vatu is a set standard fare anywhere in town and there are 100's of these vehicles roaming.

The contrast between Tanna and Port Vila is astonishing with Tanna being literally back in the 18th century. Before we forget the trees of Vanuatu are a real treasure...huge banyan trees and a variety of numerous other big trees give it a big garden feel and provide great shade. Before the end of this week we will commence cruising north to the islands of Epi, Ambrym, Malakula, Pentecost and Espirito Santo before returning to Port Vila to clear for New Caledonia by the end of October.

19 Oct 2007
Emae Island, Vanuatu
Happy Birthday sister Deb B in Grenoble France. Now of an age band we no longer mention !!
Meanwhile aboard Musketelle we are now anchored in a shallow bay called Sulua Bay on Emae Island. We left Port Havannah at 0950 intending a short trip to Nguna Island at the top of Efate. Once out of the shelter the forecast 15-25 kts came at us at 25-35 with some very big seas. There is a not so low low (about 1008) sitting over Vanuatu at the moment - it is stationary/very slow moving and has been around for the last four days or so. Think it is being blocked by a very big high in the Tasman. So we are getting enhanced SE trades as they say - ie lots of wind, very overcast but very little rain This is a pain because we would dearly love to fill our water tanks.

Having rejected Nguna Island as an anchorage we continued on for a few hours to Emae Island where we are now anchored. Bit of a rough trip - staysail and 2 reefs, some pooping waves from the starboard quarter (how rude) and B dozed thru most of it whilst Peter kept an eye on the sea whilst the autopilot valiantly steered. B had wrist bands on (compliments of Alf) placing them on some chinese wrist acqupuncture point, they seem to be working. Came between Emae Island and Cook Reef, which did not look like a good place to connect, without trouble. Presume it is called Cook Reef due to some visit by his illustrious self. Anchored in about 9 m of water, rock/coral more than sand bottom, so hope we can get anchor up ok,at least depth is fairly consistent and not downhill like the last anchorage so we won't drag on that account (wind being another matter).

Having anchored at 1630 and taken some transits, we sat down for sundowners - cheese (Mainland ex Fiji at vast expense), crackers, gerkins, buja (Fiji Indian nibbles - highly recommended). Plus vodka, galliano, lemon squash ( a variation on that stunning Gyles concoction that we were introduced to on an illfated sojourn on Muskie in the Hauraki Gulf last year(PMB having serious flu and refusing to admit it)). Back to the present P looks out and sights a swimmer. Now bear in mind the weather is pretty shitty, blowing a gale and overcast, its already 5.00pm and gets dark here about 5.30pm. Ni-Vanuatan swims up. Peter proceeds to throw him a line and haul him on board. We give him a coke and buja. He says he is looking for the spear from his spear gun - he speared a big parrot fish and line attaching spear to gun broke and fish and spear went west (makes sense because east is the shore). Peter asks various questions - eg we find that (i) cost of new spear is Vatu 2500 or so, (ii) there are 14 villages on the island, (iii) he can deliver fish in the morning and offers 5 or 10kg.

Given our fishing efforts have been miserable since Fiji we are at a loss to know whether its our technique or the fake lures from The Warehouse Alf left us ? or are these fish Vanuatuan fish smarter than Kiwi fish ? Peter next asks asks about bats and I hasten to add that we do not eat bats, merely curious!. We then get asked if we have any medication for his foot. Dr Peter takes a look. Apparently a cone (fish/shell?) entered it a year ago and a bit is still there. We say that antibiotic cream no use for embedded infections - he should go to Vila or Luganville and see doctor for surgical removal - seems unlikely. Apparently there is a small clinic on the island - god knows what it does , dispense disprin? and a "hospital" on the other side but the doctor went to Vila and has not come back. We finally suggest he swims back to shore before dark, rejecting his advice that we anchor further north (Peter points out later it would have more than halved his swim distance). He says that tomorrow when we come ashore (which, until P ordered the fish, had not been the plan) he can show us places so we can take photos etc. Peter then concludes that we are about to fund the replacement of the elusive spear!!

P now relaxing in master stateroom (ie back cabin) reading Claudia Orange's " Treaty of Waitangi" which he is finding fascinating and is having a major impact on his views - eeks he is about to turn into a woolly woofter liberal !!.

22 Oct 2007
Epi Island, Vanuatu
Copy of email to 4year old grandson Noah in Wellington NZ
Hello Noah
We are still on the yacht and we have been thinking how you would have enjoyed being with us today. Because today we had an exciting day watching dolphins and turtles swimming around the yacht as we are anchored in beautiful Lamen Bay, Epi Island. First we spotted about ten dolphins swimming in circles herding the smaller fish for a breakfast feast. Every so often we would see a lot of splashing going on as the dolphins eat the smaller fish. At the same time we would see the odd small fish fly out of the water and scuttle away at top speed from the dolphins to live another day in the deep blue sea. After this we spotted our first big sea turtle poke his rugby ball shaped head above the water for air, look around with his big eyes and then dive below the surface. Over the next hour we were entertained by six turtles surfacing around us. They were diving down to the bottom to feed on the sea grass. Sea Turtles have a big round shell and four flippers for swimming. The good thing for turtles is in most parts of the world they are a protected species and they are left alone which means they can live a very long life. At Epi Island in Vanuatu they are protected and that made us very happy. Tomorrow we are hoping to catch sight of another special sea creature the Dugong which is a huge big sea mammal that also eats sea grass. Maybe Mummy can google sea turtles and dugongs to show you what we are talking about because we are sure you will be excited too. Love G&G

ps Noah we hear from your Dad that you have a new pair of gumboots so you can help out in the garden over winter. While boys normally have gumboots in colours starting with the letter B...black,brown or blue; we think its great you select what ever colour gumboots you want. We know your gumboot shopping story will be told many times in the future.

23 Oct 2007
En route Epi Is/ Port Vila,Vanuatu
We had 3 nights at Lamen Bay Epi Island where it rained torrentially including 25-30+ knot winds but it was not cold. Clearly the weather in these latitudes is on the turn as is much more changeable than we have been getting. So much so that our plans to get up to Espiritu Santo were curtailed by adverse wind and wave conditions curtailing our northing at Epi Island. The other thing is our SSB Radio which we rely on for long range weather and comms broke down so we are returning to Port Vila to get it repaired and to prep for the passage to New Caledonia.

25 Oct 2007
Port Vila
Now back in Port Vila getting our SSB radio repaired and prepping for the New Cal leg. That is just a short 3 and a bit day trip but can be boisterous apparently. Boats that left Vila a couple of days ago Australia bound apparently got hammered with huge swells and some turned back. We had big head on seas coming from Port Havannah back to Vila but Muskie handled them beautifully.

30/31 Oct 2007

Port Vila, Vanuatu to Loyalty Islands
180 mile overnight passage due south from Port Vila, Vanuatu to the Loyalty Island group administerd by the French out of New Caledonia. Arrive Baie de Doking, Lifou Island at 0700hrs after gutsy passage into building E/SE winds and seas.

Fiji - Aug / Sep 2007

08 Aug 2007

Paradise Found - Savu Savu, Fiji
We could say that the reason why we have not communicated of late is because we have taken until today (Tuesday evening) to recover, but that would be a porky - as the Southland sheep and dairy farmer from SY Desire said today, "he has never felt so comfortable just sitting around doing nothing and wondered whether it was something in the Savusavu air." In other words this place is very relaxing . The Fijians are great - full of smiles, always saying "Bula" (hello) and not doing much else. The Indians are taking care of business running the shops and everything else and the place is a veritable hive of activity especially the market place on Saturday morning which has both Fijians and Indians manning stalls, with buses (ie trucks) arriving from the hills all morning with the most wonderful produce. Dairy produce is available - local and from NZ.  Really leaves Tonga for dead.

Our great find in Savu Savu was the 'Butchery in the Bookstore' thats right a butchery and bookshop combined, only in Fij. The butchery sold the most divine steak produced from stock roaming around under the palm trees on Vanua Levu.  B establishes the beef farmers have been doing this for a few generations and their meat is the most sought after throughout Fiji.

We are looking at our route through and around Fiji. Have decided to give Suva a miss and decide on an island hopping route that takes us south to the old colonial capital of Levuka then navigating inside the reefs around the north coast of Viti Levu to Lautoka and Nandi Bay. From here we will then spent time up in the western Yasawa island chain before returning to Lautoka to then depart Fiji  for Vanuatu in 2 months. The route outlined includes countless superb anchorages so we are really looking forward to losing ourselves among these 300 islands in the sun. If the rest of Fiji is as nice as Savu Savu we understand why people come back regularly. Of course we would not comment on the political quagmire Fiji insists on taking ownership of.

30 Aug 2007
Reef Dodging, northern Viti Levu, Fiji
Since last posting we have sailed around the top of the main island of Viti Levu from east to west dodging coral reefs to the Nandi Bay area where the major international airport for Fiji is located. On arrival we checked into Denerau Marina to give Musketelle and ourselves a treat. Being in a marina we have access to shore power at $5 per day so we used the opportunity to fire up the air conditioning for the first time to beat the heat.  A little anti-social as we have to close the main hatch and all port holes to maintain interior temp at 15c for P and 19c for B.....a contentious issue as to what temp the ship should be at.

Our immediate neighbour was an eccentric yank aboard a catamaran called 'Good News'. Mike by name was one of those handy (have a nice day) types that was busy befriending everyone but particularly the Fijians who were visiting his ship in endless processions each day. They were all being relieved of an unknown sum before walking away with a special gift in the form of electronic Good News bibles. An example of real new age evangelical sailor spreading the good word (at a price to fund his voyaging we think).

We also did the tourist thing checking out the huge development on Denerau Island. 10yrs back there were only 2 hotels on Denerau (a mangroval low island 2 miles from downtown Nandi) The Regent and Sheraton. Today there are 8 major hotels and associated infrastructure...very impressive.

A funny thing happened the other day as B was waiting for a taxi into Nandi town....a couple of Fijians were also waiting for a cab with some large sacks when one of the sacks got up and walked away....the Fijian grabbed it back then hopped into a cab. Turns out there was a baby piglet inside !!! In Fiji pigs can travel by cab too!!!

04 Sep 2007
King Alfred arrives to visit
B's father aka Alf King of Lowry Bay arrives at Port Denerau marina for 12 day visit aboard to take on role as chief steward and fish killing tutor. Quickly installs himself in forepeak cabin. We hire a beaut little Suzuki Swift to zap around the immediate environs and stock up on supplies. One of the ongoing surprises of Fiji continues to be the fantastic meat we are able to purchase. In Nandi South Pacific Meats supply all the aforementioned hotels and they impressed us with vacumn packing on the spot and blast freezing if required. 

An amazing exprience and we handed over as part of the ceremony our gift of kava.

Next day we sail weat to the Mamauca and Yasawa islands. First stop is Waya Island for the ritual of presenting kava to a local Chief Tui Waya, with the full formal welcome sitting cross legged on the mats on the floor of his chiefly house. We are then free to explore his territory so headed for the drop dead stunning Navadra Island (30 miles west of Nandi) the island used by a kiwi television production company to film a reality castaway tv series with sports celebs in 2006.  This island was another special place surrounded by stunning reefs and white sand beaches. The local Fijian boys we spoke to were tidying up following the filming and all happy having been paid a kings ransom of  $80 per day for the trouble.

Today was a three swim day in azure blue waters and a nice sunset before cocktails, pan fried pork chops with salad then coffee and Cadbury milk chocolate to finish. We continue to be impressed by the majesty of these Fijian islands with their high peaks and over the next 10 days we will move north through the Yasawa Island chain.

We anchor off Nanua Island in the Yasawas where the Blue Lagoon cruise boats turn around and where the movie Blue Lagoon was filmed years ago.

Out in the dink in a tropical downpour yesterday, spotted a large turtle. Later went snorkelling. Alf got the heeie geebies at one stage and had a hyper breathing episode due to ingestion of water via the snorkel. He will try again today in the shallows rather than over the reef. At 78 he had never snorkelled and got a little over enthused.

But not to be sidelined after frightening us snorkelling Alf has been showing Peter the worlds most reluctant fisher (who loves the eating but not the killing) how to fish and he promptly caught a large blue trivally in the dark last night. Probably actually caught two at once, one of which got away because the bottom hook and sinker were missing when he pulled him up.

Nanuya Levu is a very nice spot with a really lovely resort. We had dinner there the night before last, excellent meal. Will stay here again tonight then head back towards Port Denarau over the next 2 days so that we get back there on Friday about lunchtime for Alfs flight home. He is returning to winter in NZ thoroughly invigorated and impressed from his first visit to Fiji, saying it was worth waiting 78 years for.

We sail back to Lautoka to formally clear out of Fiji for Vanuatu anchoring off the port overnight and next morning Musketelle was coated in ash residue from the local sugar mill and will stay there until the next rain. We sail south from Lautoka to then spend a few days down at Musket Cove before setting sail west.

Tonga to Fiji - 04 Aug 2007

03 August 2007
Tonga to Fiji
We are headed for Savu Savu on Vanua Levu in north western Fiji a distance of 450 nautical miles NNW of Tonga. This will be a tropical sail between 18 and 16 degrees south of the equator so should be a pleasant cruise. The first 300 miles is open water then we enter the Fiji Group and the final 150 miles is among the reefs and islands. Once we are officially cleared from Tonga we will sail to the most westerly anchorage in the Vavau group and have a good nights sleep. Barbara will take her seasick pills and then on waking we will be off. Weather permitting of course.....

07 August 2007
Theres always lots of Weather
We arrive Savu Savu, Fiji after a 4 day passage that delivered some unexpectedly rough weather - 38 knots and later a boisterous following sea - nothing dangerous just highly annoying and uncomfortable. Had some excitement - in middle of night (of course) the wire strop (head pendant) holding the top of the genoa sail to the furler connection at the top by the mast snapped and the genoa fell into the sea and in a flash trolling beside the boat in the swell, held on only by the tack fitting at the base. So we had to haul it back on deck (slowed the boat down first) and it wasn't that hard, surprising really as quite a big sail. To get it off the deck we simply opened the foredeck hatch and shoved the sail down into the bow - as it was wet with sea water that made a bit of a mess but thats sailing. Only problem was a couple of stanchions got bent so we have them off to get them straightened.
Air Sea Search
The feature of this leg was the ever changing weather with tropical squalls coming in from all directions at times. One night we had the airy experience of talking on VHF with an RNZAF Orion aircraft looking for a missing Tongan fishing boat and we had dialogue with them but as we were 80 miles away from the search area and it was upwind our asssitance was not required as they said other boats were closer.

Tonga - July 2007

Nukualofa, Tonga
Safely moored stern to (Mediterranean style - anchor is off the bow and 2 stern lines to shore, need dinghy to get to shore) in Faua Boat Harbour, Nukualofa. Arrived 1545hrs Friday 22 June and a bit concerned being Friday afternoon we might not be cleared until Sat or even worse Mon. But thankfully Diane and Alan off SY Moonfleet who had got in that morning had the nous to pre-organised Quarantine and Immigration for us and we cleared with no problems at all by 1700. Then 30 minutes later were walking into town checking the lie of the land and heading for for a cool drink (Steinlager) and dinner with the Moonfleeters.

Musketelle at Faua Harbour, Nukualofa
our first anchorage and first foreign port

Now Monday 25 June we are still in Faua Harbour doing what cruisers do.... relax and repair for the next passage. The refrigeration has been a big problem with intermittent electrical outages. Talk about having to be a jack of all trades...in the toilet system one minute, up the mast the other and satellite connection problems with the satphone, you name it we have to handle it or suffer the consequences. Self resilience is the name of the game. But hey we are out here doing it and thats what its all about and 28/30c degrees with sea breezes wafting through the ship sure makes up for it. But paradise has its ways and B is down with a head cold due to us sleeping with a fan on over the bed the other night. Dr B is administering from the ships comprehensive medical kit so a quick recovery is anticipated. We have sussed out the markets for fresh vegetables and found the best baker in town so we are very comfortable. The local lettuce tomatoes and cucumbers are something special with a taste that our NZ hydroponic production misses completely. The tropical fruits were exceptional too.

Fresh Mango !!

With the refrigeration breaking down we hosted all the yachties on the dock to an impromptu BBQ on our fast defrosting meat which was meant to last us for the next few months. A great way to meet the neighbours with a mix of Kiwis, Auusies, Poms, Germans and Yanks all not surprisingly in on the act for free kai. Most are going in the same general direction cruising north through the Haaapai Group of islands and then further north to Vaavau. A number of expat locals also rocked up among them the local airline pilot, an Aussie and the Tongatel cellphone system guru, an American.

Talk here is all about the crystal clear waters and we are really looking forward to perfecting snorkelling skills again among the reefs. Interestingly even scuba divers say the snorkelling is near as exciting in these parts. We are fast falling into the grips of Tongan Time but can still tell its coming up lunchtime so will see what can be cooked up for the bunk-ridden crew. Good news finally sorted the refrigeration out today with input from aforementioned Aussie pilot and a local refrigeration engineer. Required a tweek rather than a hammer to fix.

ps The only real downer is we cannot view the Amcup races in Valencia and are relying on Alf for his txt messages and then the trusty BBC who devote 20 secs to the result. So whilst its a big thing in NZ its off the radar everywhere else.

Posing on beach Tongatapu

08 July 2007
Depart Nukualofa
Finally departed Nukualofa 2 weeks after arriving. 2 weeks largely devoted to ship housekeeping issues... refrigeration, headsail furler and taking on diesel fuel, freshwater and provisions. Still had time to visit the markets every other day for fresh produce pawpaw, bananas, toms and lettuce etc including fresh tuna from the fish market 100m from the dock. Our impressions of the main island Tongatapu are of an island obsessed with the trappings of the 21st century...cellphones, old Jap import cars but scant regard for the environment with litter a major problem. The other night it rained big and as a result our little boat harbour was literally full of plastic, bottles and all kinds of rubbish. We renamed it Foul Harbour. Our impressions of the Tongan people in Nukualofa is of a people stuck with a political system that benefits the privileged few but not the majority and the disproportionate power the church wields over the populace with the obvious backing of the political system. So back to our voyage of discovery...

06 July 2007
Fafa Island to Kelefesia
departed for Fafa Island 5 miles across the lagoon from Nukualofa for dinner in a classic island resort restaurant before leaving at midnight for the 50 mile overnight passage north to Kelefesia, our first of many islands en route to Vava'u. The Tongan group is a string of 170 odd islands spread roughly 180 miles south to north between 18 and 20 degress south of the equator. When we say islands some are little more than coral atolls producing breaking surf in the middle of the ocean. The big challenge is all the charts are pre-electronic and some even date from the 19th century and are out by up to 200 metres east to west meaning you could easily kiss an atoll if you are not 100% concentrating all the time. For this reason the best time to navigate is when the sun is highest between 1000 and 1400 each day and when the sun is behind you. So our days consist of up early, breakfast then ashore for an explore before sailing to the next island to anchor and settle in to watch the sunset (often stunning) then early dinner and to the bunk absolutely pooped.

07 July 2007
Kelefesia Island
We arrived at Kalefesia at 0900 Sat 07 Jul an hour early to enter the narrow pass in the surrounding coral reef marked by a gap in the breaking surf (called blind rollers because when you enter from the seaward side you cannot readily see they are breakers until you are on top ready to surf them). Decided with the blessing of the navigator to break the aforementioned 1000/1400 rule and motored straight into the lagoon in perfect conditions. One minute 600ft deep dark blue water then crystal clear bottom of white sand and coral out crops at 60ft deep. Just stunningly beautiful and instant calm without swell as we anchored, which was not before time for B as she had another terrible passage through the night as she did not take her seasick pills. All that day she was in a state and slept most of the day and did not surface until the next morning when we went ashore to explore.  Kelefesia is a small high island about the size of Soames Is in Wellington Harbour half surrounded by white sand beach and half rocky bluffs. The luxuriant growth consists of coconut palms, pawpaw, banana and even lemon trees. On going ashore we were greeted by one of 2 brothers that call the island home. No one else is in residence and they live there for three weeks at a time then spend a week at nearby Nomuka Island catching up with family, selling their seafood and stocking up.  Moses, the older brother, was only too keen for us to visit.  Milk and Batteries were the price he was keen on extracting in return for the privilege and he asked very courteously. We had milk powder but not batteries so added 2 new hats/caps instead which he was very pleased with. When congratulated on his brilliant white teeth he asked for cream and brush so we added a new toothbrush and a new tube of Colgate to the list plus some rope. He showed us his pigs and dog with no name, his house and smokehouse where he was drying his squid for the Nukualofa markets and the absolute delicacy smoked squid heads which command a real premium. If those Japanese seafoodies in Tokyo could get a direct supply line going with Kelefesia, Moses would be onto a real winner and if Richard Branson could see this island P reckons its better than his Necker Island in the Caribbean. But this island belongs to Moses and his brother handed down through 4 generations when it was gifted by the then King George the 3rd of Tonga (they call all their Kings a local name as well as George due to their 18th century fixation with the British Royal family). Truth be known Moses' great great great grandfather probably gave his daughter to the King and the island was the payment !!! Tutt Tutt B wants P to edit that out.



Morning Arrival off  Kelefesia Island

Kelefesia Anchorage



Paradise Found - Kelefesia



Ditto

Resident 'Moses' canoe on beach

'Moses Camp' drying octopus for market

09 July 2007
Nomuka-iki Island, Tonga
After lunch we sailed the 25 miles north to Nomuka-iki Island and anchored 200m off the island in another nice anchorage but nothing as spectacular as Kelefesia. Just 1 mile to our north is another larger island Nomuka where Tasman, Cook and other explorers visited to stock up on fresh deep spring water and fresh produce. Cook visited this anchorage on each of his 3 voyages sometimes staying as long as 5 weeks giving his crew well earned r & r in a perfect tropical setting.
One night was enough for us as we were invaded by squadrons of mosquitoes intent on biting throughout the night irrespective of burning coils and sraying campaigns waged by B.
Next morning rowed ashore to walk on the beach and take in the fauna and bird life and a beached Korean squid boat before departing at noon on 20 mile passage north to Ha'afevu Island.


         
Nomuka-iki Island off-course fishing boat

 

Skipper with his late dads walking stick

Divine blue water anchorage Nomuka-iti Is
maybe Cooks Endeavour anchored in this spot too ? 





                               

We are now anchored at Fa'afevu Island following a stunning motor sail in warm and sunny conditions passing reefs (some with high crashing waves and blowhole driven spray) and yet more islands including two volcanoes off to the west, one (extinct) rises 1000ft in a classic conical shape out of the sea. The other named Tofua is more pancake shaped and not as tall but is very active with steam blowing.  Flames are apparently sometimes evident from this volcano at night and we have it 25 miles away on the stern so will look out for action tonight. Interestingly Tofua is the island off which the 'Mutiny on the Bounty' took place where Fletcher Christian and the mutineers put Capn Bligh and his officers in a longboat and cast them adrift.


Sailing waters Kingdom of Tonga


Tonight anchored off Ha'afevu we had sundowners aboard the British yacht 'Moonfleet' and were joined by another couple from the Coromandel off their tiny 28 foot yacht 'Dayspring'.  There is another kiwi yacht a day away named 'Desire' from Bluff with a family of 5 stoic Southlanders aboard. So we are not the only cruisers out here on the edge. We all communicate on the VHF (close range) or Single Side Band (long range).

If you navigate with Google Earth you can see where we are and where we are headed. Forecast for tomorrow 10 knot ESE Winds 28/29c Temp and with some luck our first fish as we try to commence fish killing operations with Alfs kit.
ps. no activity from the volcano last night.

11 July 2007
Pangai Island, Tonga
A really low island surround by large lagoons. The town of Pangai is the capital of the Ha'apai Group of islands and the third most important town in Tonga with all the government department offices in the heart, a dusty main street and a handful of shops with the fire station at one end and the district high school at the other. The town sits beside this quant little enclosed dock area within which the local fishing fleet and the visiting yachts are moored. The local island roll/on roll/off ferry (fondly known as the green vomit) rocks up every few days which attracts the locals as the biggest show in town. To top the scene off pigs and piglets roam and root all over the parish day and night with barking and fighting dogs in the night signalling another pig has met the jaws of the pack. Going for a walk at night we will need a spotlight because there is no street lighting.


Pangai Town Harbour

Med Moored Pangai

Ferry with the technicolor name

 We watched an All Black / Springbok game Sat night in the Mariners Cafe, we had 11 kiwis in our group, (boosted by the arrival of the Southlanders), 2 Brits (who backed the Boks), the cafe owner was a Yarpie (with a Polish wife) and a handful of others of unknown origin who clearly did not recognise the oval ball.

Next day being Sunday in Tonga absolutely nothing is happening on land or sea. The kids are not even allowed to swim, no boats go out, lots of church services with the bonus of melodic singing drifting out to the anchorage. When some children passed by later in the afternoon B turned the sound up and played them some old Maori songs that they could relate to and we finally got some animation going on the sabbeth.....how naughty Musketelle.

There are a surprising number of boats here - the Ha'apai's being among the lesser visited areas of Tonga, most boats going direct to Vava'u. The primary reason being lack of shelter from all but the SE and NW winds in Pangai's small harbour. We had one squall at Pangai where we had a spot of bother and had to up anchor and pull out in a hurry to avoid hitting the rocks with the rudder. We were Med moored again and being the last boat in had to settle for the worst spot meaning we could not drop our anchor in the best position so that when the squall arrived we were left with no option but to pull out and swing off the anchor for the night, but with the harbour so small we were vulnerable and in the way of the ferry. Luckily 'SY Lotus' a Dutch yacht departed so we were able to take their spot..

We are now anchored off Ha'ono Island 12 miles north of Pangai and have just been for a dusk snorkle and bat watching expedition. The bats here are big in size and number. The activity as they head off on their night foraging is impressive. We will be here until 10 or 11 tonight and then do a night sail north to the next group, Vava'u.



Magic Sunset waiting to sail north to Vavau

Well must go, have to email for a weather forecast. Pis sleeping until 2200. We will then sail out and once clear of land B will have a sleep for a couple hours.

29 July 2007
Hello and Goodbye from Vaavau, Tonga
Vava'u is the main tourist and sailing area in Tonga, full of cruising yachts and lots of charter yachts. The main town of Neiafu sits on a landlocked lagoon which is an old volcanic crater surrounded by high hills This anchorage is known throughout the Pacific as one of the best hurricane holes allowing yachts to anchor here year round.  Sunsail has a large permanent charter fleet here to. The key attractions of Vava'u are the huge number of idyllic anchorages with superb snorkelling and diving and the whale watching due to its proximity to the deep Tonga Trench just to the east.



Neiafu - capital of the Vavau Group 

A typical Vavau limestone islet

Swallows Cave Vavau

We spent 2 weeks in Vavau losing ourselves in the island ways and enjoying the settled tropical weather. We have moved between anchorages and have found some classic snorkelling spots and are getting a couple of swims in each day. The coral reefs and fish life is stunning and we are in awe at the beauty. Our outdoor shower on the aft steps of Musketelle works a treat providing a freshwater rinse every time.

Its now 2 months since we left Auckland and we are in planning mode for departure for the next leg to Fiji. We have filled our water tanks with hard scaly Neiafu water (and as luck would have it immediately after that there was a long tropical downpour which could have contributed nice rain water - but that's the breaks). We are planning to go into Neiafu today to fill our diesel tanks with duty free fuel which is available to departing vessels. Finally a quick run around the local markets for fresh vege and bread and we will then clear customs and immigration and be on our way to Fiji. We are headed for Savu Savu on Vanua Levu in northern Fiji a distance of 450 nautical miles NNW of Tonga. This will be a tropical sail between 18 and 16 degrees south of the equator so should be a pleasant cruise. The first 300 miles is open water then we enter the Fiji Group and the final 150 miles is among the reefs and islands. Once we are officially cleared from Tonga we will sail to the most westerly anchorage in the Vavau group and have a good nights sleep. Barbara will take her seasick pills and then on waking we will be off. Weather permitting of course.....



Evidence that the skipper really is getting in to island ways...
in his lava-lava surfing on the laptop in saloon.
A zillion miles from the other life !!





NZ to Tonga - Jun 2007

Friday 01 June
On the Move at Last - Heading for Opua
At high noon 01 June we finally slip the lines and depart Auckland to head north to our departure port, Opua in the Bay of Islands. Couriers following in our wake, with last minute spare parts orders. Sailed in perfect westerly winds up to Leigh then motorsail into head winds up to Whangarei Heads copping a few green ones over the bow and notice water ingress at the main forward deck hatch. This is fortuitous in the sense we would rather discover this now than off-shore. After an overnight stop at Tutukaka we sail next day up to the Bay of Islands and take a berth at the Opua Marina. First job is to get a shipwright to make teak waterbreaks for our three foredeck hatches to stop the aforementoned water ingress.

Opua is a neat little marine precinct much loved by the sailing fraternity with a great mix of services including rigger, sailmaker, shipwright, paintshop, electrical and chandlery. Surprise...we used all of them as we sorted out the remaining outstanding items on the worklist. You would think we were sailing away from humanity and all services. Had some great evenings at the local Opua Cruising Club meeting up with other cruisers who were either about to depart for points in the Pacific, were still prepping and had missed the season or yet others who had lost their way and based on their individual stories not likely to be going anywhere any time soon. We picked up on some great quality information from these contacts and felt enthused that for the first time we were getting into the networking the cruiser community is renowned for.

Tuesday 05 June
King Alfred comes to Farewell us
B's father Alf drives all the way up from Wellington to see us off, stayed 5 days and returned we regret, before we departed; dismayed the never ending list of 'to do's' was still increasing rather than decreasing. He secretly harboured the thought we were ever going to make it happen.

But B & P are unanimous you go when you are ready and not before

14 Jun 2007
Departure Day !!!
A tad under 4 months since we moved aboard we pointed Musketelle's bow for the open sea departing Opua Customs Wharf at 1748 hrs in fading dusk light and appropriately in light misty rain. Destination 'the friendly isles' Nukualofa, Tonga. It was a surreal feeling....we are off sailing around the world for 43,800 hours....or 1825 days or 5 years....just a blink in time. We pinched ourselves and then made phone calls to family before the cellphone coverage dropped out. The emotions were a bit high as the winds soon increased and increased as we cleared Cape Brett with visiblity dropping in the winter rain squalls. They were not exactly the dream departure conditions we had visualised over the years of preparation but it was finally a reality, just the two of us and our yacht. If the weather had been kinder P reflects he would have toasted the departure with a wee dram for the throat and one over the bow. Will do that when we complete the circumnavigation !!!. And we have a special bottle aboard for the job.

17 Jun 2007
North of Raoul Island 23.08s 179.35e
Good morning from SY Musketelle about 25 miles from crossing the International Dateline at longitude 180.00 degress to go back a day just north of Raoul Island in the Kermadec Group. NZ's most northerly islands inhabited by Conservation Dept weed pickers!!! P was last on Raoul in 1999 delivering said weeders for DOC on the big blue boat. Now into our 4th night at sea we have experienced a splattering of the best and worst including 2 days of huge seas. We have both been affected with nausea but B has really been flattened with seasickness as well. We are both really tired but slowly getting into a system of watches with the night hours obviously the hardest. We stowed some magic quality kiwi cuisine for the leg but its too hard to prep in a bouncing galley so we are rustling through the easy prep fodder in preference.

Dawn coming at Sea on a typical ocean swell
Under Main and Staysail with Genoa furled

This morning we were in SW winds with following seas making it very comfortable but the weather prognosis is for northerly head winds all the way to Tonga from Wednesday. These winds will be coming off the top of an approaching Low over the Tasman about to envelop Godzone. We are sourcing weather forecasts from a variety of providers via compessed data graphics by email using our Iridium satphone and via SSB radio communications with an amatuer marine radio station Russell Radio in the Bay of Islands at 0700 and 1900 daily. This station takes data from all yachts that are members and the benefit is we get to hear what other conditions yachts in our area are experiencing too. At the moment we have around 6 vessels in our general vacinity (200/300 mile range) all going in different directions (New Caledonia, Fiji, Vanuatu, Tonga). If we are starting to show signs of introspection in these blogs put it down to going troppo or similar....we will come out of it when we make landfall.

19 Jun 2007
At Sea 25.35s 178.39e
In the middle of a big round circle of water (funny how the horizon is round when you are in the middle of it) with only the slightest of breeze directly from the north/north east ie on the nose. So we are motoring. B feeling 100% now, over seasickness finally (or at the moment).

P is currently asleep after a bit of an odd night last night. Firstly our genoa refused to furl so we had to do circles to drop it and stuff it into the forepeak with a view to fixing the problem in the morning. Then the battery charger went beserk with an error message and flashing lights where there shouldn't be. We were so concerned we would be battery-less that we hand steered most of the night. Not happy and very tired!!. P managed to identify the cause of the charger problem this morning so we are back and running in that regard. The genoa furling line was also "sorted" and the genoa rehoisted only to refuse to furl again this afternoon when the wind dropped. Finally got if furled through brute strength. Clearly something is wrapped at the top - a "miss" by the trusty riggers at Half Moon Bay. Will fix when we get to Tonga and will use the staysail instead (anyway no wind so doesn't matter). Now the refrigeration is on the blink and its only 2 months young. Not very happy as the freezer is stocked full of expensive fine cuts.

Forgot to mention the chap that runs Russell Radio is Des Renner ex Wellington yachting circles. Does a really great job every single day between 0600 and 2100hrs and he's in his 80's. Another of those unsung heroes that you come across doing largely unpaid work that they love.

Oh well signing off after another day at the floating office. B

25 June 2007
Tongatapu in Sight
Mid morning we sight Tongatapu the main island of Tonga.  We aim for the capital Nukualofa arriving in the towns, Faua Harbour at 1545hrs. All well.

Q Flag up for arrival Tonga

Are we really Ready ? - May 2007

May 2007
Are we really Ready ?

Well, of course we are not. We are still in the '100 Club' !!! according to the list of jobs still outstanding.

A list that reduces and then increases in the blink of an eye. B is making sure we leave absolutely nothing to chance whereas P is inclined to err on the side of 'she'll be right on the night, or day'.

B decides we need more anchors and chain and high load shackles for joining said chain, so that involves another series of forays into deepest industrial South Auckland.

As a result we now have 5 anchors and half mile of chain and rope warps. We agree anchors are to the cruising yacht what oxygen is to a diver and given we cannot control the varied conditions we will be anchoring in its a no brainer to be prepared for the worst katabatic winds. With this extra kit aboard Musketelle is now starting to settle distinctly down on the waterline we had only adjusted during the March haulout.

More Ups and Downs - Apr 2007

April 2007
More Ups and Downs

Next we moved up the Tamaki River to our pole mooring in front of the house so that we can remove from our adjacent boatshed the remaining gear required aboard.

Boatshed at bottom of garden, Pole mooring out front
Musketelle's homebase in NZ

At this inopportune time Musketelle's refrigeration system decided to die, which aboard a yacht is tantamount to disaster if you are filled with frozen supplies. Luckily we were able to find a temporary home for our supplies. We then had a thoroughly unpleasasnt experience where we chose the wrong "refrigeration engineer" when what should have been a simple 230v re-installation turned into a fiasco that necessitated us requiring the services of the engineer we should have selected in the first place to make remedial adjustments.

23 April
Cat 1 Day
No nothing to do with felines.  We have our NZ Yachting Federation Inspection to get the necessary "Category One" (Cat 1) certificate required for all NZ registered yachts sailing offshore. This certification requires that all safety gear is correctly installed and stowed and documentation is 100%. If not it can be a nightmare. With B in control of this task we flew through in 30 minutes with the inspector congratulating us on our presentaion and systems. A bloody good feeling which augers well for us...we think !!!

We are now legally certified to clear NZ shores, but are we ready ?

Musketelle Out of Water - Mar 2007

March 2007
Boatstuff

After Februarys hiccups we continued with our plan (albiet now behind sched) to take Musketelle out of the water at the Halfmoon Bay Marina TravelLift for a final bottom job to antifoul, service thruhulls and prop etc.

Musketelle on the hard
at Halfmoon Bay

This was planned to take a week but ended up taking two and then we moved into the marina to complete a series of rigging, deck, mechanical and electrical jobs which took another two weeks rounding out the month. So.... we had to get another rental car as we were not achieving things quickly enough.

Let the Adventure Begin - Feb 2007

The Adventure Begins

Sunday 18 Feb the adventure begins as we finally unshackle from the relative luxuries of house and home, queen size bed & en suite, lazyboy & halogen reading lamp, home office & broadband, bbq & sundeck, swimming pool & peaceful garden....for life aboard a 16.00m long by 4.40m wide yacht.

The die was cast some years before when we jointly agreed three core things :
* doing a 360 by yacht is still the ultimate way to see and experience the world
* allow a minimum of 5 years for the circumnavigation
* do it before you lose the muscle and the head.

Pre-Departure 2007

So here we are, having got all our ducks in line ready to fulfill our dream, (and thats a story in itself). There is absolutely no turning back now. Our home is rented and tenants shift in tomorrow.

Tonight we move aboard Musketelle at Westhaven Marina with the feeling that a 16 metre yacht has 2 metres for its crew and requires 14 metres for gear.  B declares we have no chance of finding a home for everything ....and we still have more gear in the boatshed to come aboard.  With cars disposed of we have a rental car for running around for those last minute things, more food, travel doctor for remaining jabs, (10 different innoculations each at last count), spare parts etc etc and the list goes on!!.



Musketelle at Westhaven Marina

Hiccups
We spend the next 2 weeks living aboard tied up to the marina berth and time just flew by, impacted by the following major hiccups that were not on the radar :

1.Major sewage system blockage and health hazard overflow at the house.  To cut a long and expensive story short the tenants have a newborn baby and "the nanny" was simply putting the dirty diapers down the toilet....impacting result predictable !!!.

2. As if this was not enough P went to the doc for a strained elbow ligament and the locum inadvertently prescribed Voltaren even when reminded of intolerance for Voltaren. The locum doc insisted a slow release doseage would be no problem.....wrong !!.  A few days later P ended up in an ambulance going to Auckland Hospital bleeding internally. He literally ran out of gas and could not even ride our new form of transport...the boat bicylce without stopping after 50 metres, never mind sailing round the planet.  B was silently very worried her skipper was failing before the start line.