08 Aug 2007
Paradise Found - Savu Savu, Fiji
We could say that the reason why we have not communicated of late is because we have taken until today (Tuesday evening) to recover, but that would be a porky - as the Southland sheep and dairy farmer from SY Desire said today, "he has never felt so comfortable just sitting around doing nothing and wondered whether it was something in the Savusavu air." In other words this place is very relaxing . The Fijians are great - full of smiles, always saying "Bula" (hello) and not doing much else. The Indians are taking care of business running the shops and everything else and the place is a veritable hive of activity especially the market place on Saturday morning which has both Fijians and Indians manning stalls, with buses (ie trucks) arriving from the hills all morning with the most wonderful produce. Dairy produce is available - local and from NZ. Really leaves Tonga for dead.
Our great find in Savu Savu was the 'Butchery in the Bookstore' thats right a butchery and bookshop combined, only in Fij. The butchery sold the most divine steak produced from stock roaming around under the palm trees on Vanua Levu. B establishes the beef farmers have been doing this for a few generations and their meat is the most sought after throughout Fiji.
We are looking at our route through and around Fiji. Have decided to give Suva a miss and decide on an island hopping route that takes us south to the old colonial capital of Levuka then navigating inside the reefs around the north coast of Viti Levu to Lautoka and Nandi Bay. From here we will then spent time up in the western Yasawa island chain before returning to Lautoka to then depart Fiji for Vanuatu in 2 months. The route outlined includes countless superb anchorages so we are really looking forward to losing ourselves among these 300 islands in the sun. If the rest of Fiji is as nice as Savu Savu we understand why people come back regularly. Of course we would not comment on the political quagmire Fiji insists on taking ownership of.
30 Aug 2007
Reef Dodging, northern Viti Levu, Fiji
Since last posting we have sailed around the top of the main island of Viti Levu from east to west dodging coral reefs to the Nandi Bay area where the major international airport for Fiji is located. On arrival we checked into Denerau Marina to give Musketelle and ourselves a treat. Being in a marina we have access to shore power at $5 per day so we used the opportunity to fire up the air conditioning for the first time to beat the heat. A little anti-social as we have to close the main hatch and all port holes to maintain interior temp at 15c for P and 19c for B.....a contentious issue as to what temp the ship should be at.
Our immediate neighbour was an eccentric yank aboard a catamaran called 'Good News'. Mike by name was one of those handy (have a nice day) types that was busy befriending everyone but particularly the Fijians who were visiting his ship in endless processions each day. They were all being relieved of an unknown sum before walking away with a special gift in the form of electronic Good News bibles. An example of real new age evangelical sailor spreading the good word (at a price to fund his voyaging we think).
We also did the tourist thing checking out the huge development on Denerau Island. 10yrs back there were only 2 hotels on Denerau (a mangroval low island 2 miles from downtown Nandi) The Regent and Sheraton. Today there are 8 major hotels and associated infrastructure...very impressive.
A funny thing happened the other day as B was waiting for a taxi into Nandi town....a couple of Fijians were also waiting for a cab with some large sacks when one of the sacks got up and walked away....the Fijian grabbed it back then hopped into a cab. Turns out there was a baby piglet inside !!! In Fiji pigs can travel by cab too!!!
04 Sep 2007
King Alfred arrives to visit
B's father aka Alf King of Lowry Bay arrives at Port Denerau marina for 12 day visit aboard to take on role as chief steward and fish killing tutor. Quickly installs himself in forepeak cabin. We hire a beaut little Suzuki Swift to zap around the immediate environs and stock up on supplies. One of the ongoing surprises of Fiji continues to be the fantastic meat we are able to purchase. In Nandi South Pacific Meats supply all the aforementioned hotels and they impressed us with vacumn packing on the spot and blast freezing if required.
An amazing exprience and we handed over as part of the ceremony our gift of kava.
Next day we sail weat to the Mamauca and Yasawa islands. First stop is Waya Island for the ritual of presenting kava to a local Chief Tui Waya, with the full formal welcome sitting cross legged on the mats on the floor of his chiefly house. We are then free to explore his territory so headed for the drop dead stunning Navadra Island (30 miles west of Nandi) the island used by a kiwi television production company to film a reality castaway tv series with sports celebs in 2006. This island was another special place surrounded by stunning reefs and white sand beaches. The local Fijian boys we spoke to were tidying up following the filming and all happy having been paid a kings ransom of $80 per day for the trouble.
Today was a three swim day in azure blue waters and a nice sunset before cocktails, pan fried pork chops with salad then coffee and Cadbury milk chocolate to finish. We continue to be impressed by the majesty of these Fijian islands with their high peaks and over the next 10 days we will move north through the Yasawa Island chain.
We anchor off Nanua Island in the Yasawas where the Blue Lagoon cruise boats turn around and where the movie Blue Lagoon was filmed years ago.
Out in the dink in a tropical downpour yesterday, spotted a large turtle. Later went snorkelling. Alf got the heeie geebies at one stage and had a hyper breathing episode due to ingestion of water via the snorkel. He will try again today in the shallows rather than over the reef. At 78 he had never snorkelled and got a little over enthused.
But not to be sidelined after frightening us snorkelling Alf has been showing Peter the worlds most reluctant fisher (who loves the eating but not the killing) how to fish and he promptly caught a large blue trivally in the dark last night. Probably actually caught two at once, one of which got away because the bottom hook and sinker were missing when he pulled him up.
Nanuya Levu is a very nice spot with a really lovely resort. We had dinner there the night before last, excellent meal. Will stay here again tonight then head back towards Port Denarau over the next 2 days so that we get back there on Friday about lunchtime for Alfs flight home. He is returning to winter in NZ thoroughly invigorated and impressed from his first visit to Fiji, saying it was worth waiting 78 years for.
We sail back to Lautoka to formally clear out of Fiji for Vanuatu anchoring off the port overnight and next morning Musketelle was coated in ash residue from the local sugar mill and will stay there until the next rain. We sail south from Lautoka to then spend a few days down at Musket Cove before setting sail west.
