Quietly Drifting Towards Kupang - Tuesday 29 July 2008

As noted in our previous post, we left Darwin at 1300 hours on Sunday and apart from 4 hours of sailing slowly under main and genoa on Sunday evening have motored all the way. It is now 1300 on Tuesday 29 July and we have well and truly caught up and passed the tail enders and are currently in sight of about 14 other yachts, behind, to the side, and in front of us. Darwin is 322 nm astern and the southern tip of West Timor 125 nm ahead.

We have put up our light air sail headsail, our Reacher and are doing 4-6 knots of boat speed in 5-8 knots of wind (the most wind we have had). It is nice to have some peace and quiet, although as the motoring was on dead flat seas it was actually surprisingly pleasant, just noisier.

We have not seen much wildlife, although we did have a big shark about 20 mteres behind us yesterday (nice to see at least one that has to date evaded chinese shark fin soup) and dolphins plus a lot of big mackerel in feeding frenzies at dawn this morning. It was good to hear on the radio sked this morning that one yacht rescued a turtle from a tangle of nets.

Last night we passed close to some large well lit oil rigs in the centre of the Timor Sea just on the Indonesian side of the sea border marking the end of Australian waters. Reminds us that this is why the East Timorese problems were so bitterly disputed.

We are hoping to close on the Timor coast tomorrow morning and make our way north to drop anchor off Kupang town tomorrow afternoon. Kupang has a population of 200,000+ which really makes it a city and among other things we are particularly looking forward to the food - according to The Lonely Planet guide the local specialty is ...dog meat - yeah right!!.

Timor Sea - Bound for Kupang, Timor

Our current position is 11 48 S, 128 36 E. We are underway from Darwin to Kupang. We left Darwin at 1300 on Sunday, 26 hours behind the fleet, having fixed some final bits and pieces, watched the rugby and got some sleep. As expected the wind was light and we motored most of the way out of Beagle Gulf.
Finally at 1600 hours we thought we had some wind, so we put the main and genoa up and the wind, on queue, eased again. We persisted with the sails up, finally getting enough breeze to push us along at 6.5 knots for an hour or so. Then the wind vanished completely so we sat doing 1.7 knots in 0.0 breeze, the 1.7 knots
presumably due to tide. After a lesiurely dinner we put the engine back on at 2000 hours and have been motoring ever since - it is now 1000 on Monday 28 July (Australia Central Standard Time ie 9.5 hours ahead of UTC). During the night we passed 2 other yachts in the fleet who had also left on Sunday and we have made up some time on the fleet stragglers who are motoring more slowly than our average of 7 knots.
There was a spectacular sunset last night, the sun setting scarlet red with a girdle of cloud. Then the sliver of moon rose also red. A flying fish did a death leap onto the deck right next to Barbara so it was his lucky night as he got scooped back to sea. Now to the funniest silliest thing....we recently purchased a neat little portable Waeco 12volt cooler that we use for food we require throughout the day so we are not opening up our main fridge and freezer everytime we want milk, butter or fruit. Well, we accordingly loaded it the day before leaving Darwin with fresh oranges and apples but when we opened yesterday for an orange the fruit was mostly spoiled because the thing had inadvertantly been switched to the food warmer zone. The apples were cooked and the oranges were very ripe!!!
P&B

Darwin - What Still Here?

Hi Everyone, well we didn't make the 1100 start today, Saturday 26th July 2008. We have some final matters to attend to (including two toilets not working due to all the weed in Fannie Bay) - we are off tomorrow Sunday in the morning. Benefit: Peter got to watch the All Blacks get beaten by the Aussies. Robbie Robbie Robbie Oi Oi Oi.
Update later - hopefully once we are on the move via our satellite email connection if we have configured this blog correctly.
P & B.
ps: saw 2 Dugongs in Fannie Bay today which was great. Other cruisers had seen them but we hadn't to date.

Darwin - Two Days To Go

Hello Everyone, well it is now Thursday evening two days before departure. We have a load of washing in the machine at the Darwin Sailing Club and a load of items and food to stow aboard after a very busy day rushing around Darwin doing that last minute shopping in a rental car.
Tomorrow we clear Customs and Immigration - a team is coming to the Club especially for the Rally. Tomorrow is also Show Day in Darwin and a public holiday so most businesses will be shut.
Weather has finally settled down we hope after several days of very strong winds. At the moment it is quite calm. However going back to the boat in the dinghy last night and coming ashore this morning was quite an adventure in itself and was the dinghy equivalent of crossing Cook Strait. Despite this wind, the weather is very nice, fine, sunny, average of 32 degrees C.

On the social front, we had a Kiwi roast dinner on Monday night on Pied a Mer, with Catala in attendance and the Aussies from Keishi, including two year old Jack. Joanne on Pied a Mer did a great roast pork with crackling and Barbara did a leg of lamb with roast potatoes and pumpkin.

Tuesday afternoon was the formal briefing at the new Darwin Convention Centre. The host from Sail Indonesia in Jakarta failed to appear having missed his flight and his Aussie rep fronted the presentation although not with style. The best presentation was from the Sail Malaysia rep who was enthusiastic, funny and informative. So everyone is looking forward to the Malaysian leg.

Big jobs still to be completed tomorrow include putting a new seal in the top of one of the hydraulic backstay rams (a story in itself getting the seal - we got the last one in Darwin), putting up the genoa and a new cap at the top of the furler (meaning P has to go up the mast again), unblocking the toilet salt water flush inlet pipe which is full of weed - there is a lot in the water and we have had to unblock intake pipes regularly, installing the new pump for the anchor washdown (old one cost the same to fix as to replace) etc etc - but yes we will be ready to depart 1100 hours on Saturday.

Peter and Barbara

Last Minute Stuff

21 July 2008

Last Minute Stuff
We are still at anchor in Darwin. Final week and a public hol here Friday so rush rush rush. Got fuel this morning, first appointment for the day which was good as the boats after us are griping on the radio about the queue. Had to chase some Poms away who did not have a booking for the fuel dock. Its tough out here!.

We got too and from the dock without any hassles but yesterday watched a 16m yacht motor over to the fuel dock without due regard for the tidal channels and she ended up going aground and laying over on her side until the next tide. Very embarrasing.

Have hired a car for a few days and just about to go into town with the hydraulic rams from the backstay, one of which needs a service, plus the Davey Pump (for anchor washdown) which has spat the dummy. Having the Mercury outboard serviced and running around generally buying up large....particularly food at the excellent supermarkets. Also getting some smart electronic security kit from Jaycar to install aboard.

Very windy here last night plus a spring tide and wind against tide was very uncomfortable - how to get seasick at anchor!!

Darwin - Preparing for the Rally

It has been another lovely sunny and hot mid winters day in Darwin - 32c and not humid. We are currently working on fixing things as usual e.g. watermaker, anchor washdown pump, outboard motor, sailpack, headsail furler, stern gland (ie big hole in back of boat that the prop shaft goes through), washing machine etc etc. However it is all fun (believe it or not).
Major progress today was getting our second bicycle fixed (by Peter) so we can both now ride around town and save on taxi fares - however the prospect of Peter carrying the 15hp Mercury outboard to the repair shop on the back of the bike is a bit optimistic.
It is Friday night and we are at the Darwin Sailing Club where they have wifi. The place is packed, not just with cruisers either. The place is very popular with the locals, has very good food and the best sunset vista, every night. Due west, nothing to block the view of the setting sun, except of course for the 100 plus yachts anchored in the bay.
Which reminds us, we need to go back to the boat and put on the anchor light!.
We will write again soon, Peter and Barbara.

Across the Topend - July 2008

02 July 2008
Gulf Hopping
Musketelle has departed Seisa and is currently underway on the Gulf of Carpentaria. 12.10.133S 139.07.304E on passage to Gove the capital of Arnemland in the Northern Territory and planning to pass between Bremer Island and the mainland to reach Gove. We are currently a little bit off course too far south sailing due west at the moment but the winds are not permitting us to get northwest which is where we want to head. Swell is on the beam and not very comfortable but we will hang in and it will come right. Forecast is for SE 25-30 tonight so that should allow us more oomph to head northwest.
The Gulf is relatively shallow and is renowned for being very rough in wind against tide situations from practically any quarter but if it does cut up we will just think of the South Coast of Wellington and Cook Strait and the windchill factor and it will become insignificant.

The ultimate destination on this leg is Darwin where we expect to arrive 10/12 July subject as always to wind and tide and on this leg tide in particular is a real factor requiring close analysis because they are huge with up to 6 meters between high and low in places. Not counting on getting into a marina in Darwin - the place will be crawling with yachts (at least 150-200) and marina space at a premium. We may be lucky and get a few days on a marina berth if they are using the rotation system we heard about. We will anchor off the Darwin Sailing Club in Fannie Bay and play the tide game - staying in the bar too long could mean heaving the dink and outboard hundreds of meters across mudflats to get into the water at low tide.


06 July 2008
Arnhemland Visited
We have been and gone to Gove. We went into Melville Bay and its sub bay, Inverell Bay and anchored off the Gove Yacht Club which was very run done and not that flash. However friends who were there the previous week had a great time - think it needed a large cruiser crowd to make it fun as the local population only consists of mostly aboriginals sitting in the bar and pakehas (boguns) working at the mines and living on beaten up boats or tin sheds bordering the club. Gove township proper is 5km away and consists of a modern shopping precint with local milling around doing nothing. The local club for the mine management people was top notch and in contrast to everything else. New controversial anti-drinking laws seem to be working.

Gove to Darwin

07 July 2008
Heading for the Hole
On departing Gove we headed for Cape Don to go through either the Cumberland Strait or the aptly named 'Hole in the Wall' (the Gugari Rip) at 11.33S 136.22E. We went for the Hole and got the tides exactly right going through just after high tide on the beginning of the ebb which meant we got carried through east to west on a 4 note current. Very pretty - like a man made canal only with lovely natural layered low rocks on either side.

Like a Bullet
Immediately before entering the hole we had tried to furl our headsail but all we heard a loud bang/pinging sound which we subsequently established was a piece of metal breaking off the top of the headsail furler under extreme pressure as we tried to furl the headsail, caused by the stainless steel wire halyard wrapping around the top of the alloy furler and severing off a 30mm x 30mm section of the alloy furler. That piece then flew down like a bullet wizzing through the air and hit the dodger top piercing the gelcoat and chipping a mini 10mm crater into the structure. Bloody lucky that neither of us was in its trajectory. Did not pay to think of the possible consequences in this out of the way spot.

So we left the headsail up for the transit and motorsailed through without any trouble. On the western side we tried to unwrap the sail from the foil to get the headsail down and use our staysail on the inner forestay in its place but whilst doing this the wind came gusting in at over 20 knots from the SE and put paid to that. Try as we may we could not get the thing unwrapped and furthermore P was concerned even if we did the halyard might be jammed in the alloy foil and not allow us to drop the unfurled sail to the deck. So with the wind in the right quarter we elected to put the mainsail up and keep sailing west for North Goulburn Island and hope to get a patch of very light or no wind so we can unfurl fully and P can go up the mast.


08 July 2008
Lady Luck Smiles
1350hrs To continue with the next exciting instalment..Musketelle sailed on to North Goulburn where luck was on our side and the winds dropped to 12 knots. B had to go up to the radar reflector between the first and second spreaders to untangle a halyard which we had not noticed was too slack and wrapped itself around the refelector....what a gal !! Then P went up and transferred the genoa to the spare halyard and then untangled the halyard that had cut into the alloy foil like a butter knife and then we were able to drop the genoa to the deck and packed it away.

Nice anchorage at Mullet Bay and slept in the next morning (today). So now, very late having departed at 1215 CST, we are on our way to Malay Bay. Currently doing 7.5 - 8 kts with the staysail and second reef which is pleasing although the staysail is not actually doing much but we can't be bothered dropping it at this stage. This is first time we have put in a reef since we started from Scarborough. Not really essential in these conditions (SE 20-25 kts) but good practice. However as we have the wind right up our chuff we are wobbling along which is not the best comfort wise.


08 July 2008
Tide Timing
1610hrs
Currently surfing 2 metre waves in 15-20 knot wind passing Cape Cockburn. Doing 7-9 knots under second reefed main and staysail. Smoke hanging in the skies from someone burning off the country side. 15 miles to anchorage in Malay Bay, say 1.30hrs to go so it will be dark.

Tomorrow probably now will go straight to Port Essington rather than stop at Palm Bay as originally thought. Not sure yet about the Bowen Strait. Need to check the depths - our chart detail not that good and it looks shallow. Tides probably quite strong also, so will have to check the tide times. Can you access the Bureau of Met site and have a look at their tide info - there is some interactive programme that you can put place into and get tide info.


09 July 2008
With a Little Help
We have just been through the Bowen Strait - thanks Phil for the tide times. We have the Darwin times on board but not the data for the secondary ports so it was very helpful to know that Croker was 1hr 39 behind Darwin. This meant that we were a little late going through as the tide had been ebbing west for about 4 hours. Went on the Croker Island side of the channel and no problems at all until just past the end of the middle channel sandbank when all of a sudden we went down to 2.9 metres depth and since we draw 2.7 (and I think the depth sounder is reading 200 short) it was a little nervewracking - of course just at that moment the wind gusted to 35 kts and we were doing boat speed of 6.4 kts and Speed Over Ground of 9.4knots!!   Little bit of excitement.

Now on our way to Black Point at the entrance to Port Essington to anchor for the night.


10 July 2008
Crocs at Alcaro
Currently battling the tide as we head to croc infested Alcaro Bay just before Cape Don. Will be at Cape Don 4.5 hours before Darwin Tide tonight (2338 high tide). This is meant to give best time through the Dundas Strait and then later on through the Vernons. Expect to be in Fannie Bay, Darwin, mid morning tomorrow.......

How it panned out....
We left Alcaro Bay at 1830 and were off Cape Don light at 1900, no wind!! After weeks of nothing less than 20 knots and mostly 25-35, we had to motor until 5 mins to midnight, when an 11 knot breeze came in. Did ok after that but as we were slower than planned we felt the ebb tide in the Van Diemem Gulf and did not put the staysail up until the Vernons,until then were under main only. Once that was up we did a respectable 7+ knots in winds flucuating up to 17 knots.



11 July 2008
Territory Reached
Right on que mid-morning we have arrived at Darwin capital of the Northern Territory, having covered 100+ miles in 18.5hrs is not bad considering the tides, winds and all the bends around reefs to get here. In the world of Musketelle this is a milestone given everything since we arrived in Australia has been about getting to Darwin. Its mid winter in NZ but here in Darwin its clear blue sky and 28c and we are anchored in 9 metres of water in Fannie Bay 1.5 miles from the beach and the Darwin Sailing Club (the de facto yacht club for all cruisers heading to Indonesia). There are, at a quick glance, about 60 yachts in the bay, most will be on the rally. Plus more are in marinas or still en route.

Just about to have a shower and then go ashore to report to Customs and check out the facilities and catch up with sailing friends. We have now made contact with upwards of 25 of the yachts out of the 120 in the fleet. Our Dutch/South African friends on Double Dutch even called us up on the VHF and offered to buy us some fresh bread and bring it out to us at anchor. We must remind them there is another important game on in Dunedin tomorrow night. Another until now unknown reason P was keen on getting in today !!