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Monday, December 22, 2008

Ko Lipe Island, Thailand 06.29N 99.18E

We have been delinquent in not updating our Blog since arrival Singapore. We seem to be forever on the go but also must admit we have chilled out a bit following the pace we moved through Indonesia.

Today we sailed from Malaysian waters into Thai waters and have dropped the pick at Ko Lipe Is in a nice anchorage off a white sand beach and just finished sundowners on deck to celebrate the arrival into our 10th country on the voyage.

To move back to where we left off in Singapore....we had an up and down month in bustling, booming, noisy Singapore with the crowds and traffic getting under our skin not to mention the humid tropical weather with heavy rain and thunder storms and lightning every day. B also had a temporary dental route canal done here too (but more work is needed in Phuket).

The shopping, food selection at supermarkets, the restaurants and entertainment in Singapore are of course tops. Christmas decorations arrived en masse whilst we were there and we also heard about the use of continuous, repetitive high volume music by the US military with political detainees......well the same thing was going on in all Singapore malls. We do not want to hear reworked Frank Sinatra (especially "White Christmas") or Dean Martin ever again.

We used our bikes to go shopping through the fantastic parks and cycle tracks that encircle the island. Whilst not everyones cup of tea you have to admire the industriousness of the Singaporeans on their Lake Taupo sized island.  The success that is Singapore is everywhere to be seen. The enormous Marina Development on reclaimed land which will have Singapores first casinos has to be among the largest construction projects underway on the planet. In November they opened the Barrage Reservoir with locks into the sea, designed and built by how apprpriately the masters of dykes, a Dutch consortium. It provides a huge lagoon right in the city which serves as their backup water source and also a recreational facility.

The highlight of our stay was probably the super sophisticated Republic of Singapore Yacht Club where we moored for the duration. The facilities were superb with good wifi access, a great library with chart section for route planning, the best pool, gym etc etc. We also gave the sunset deck restaurant good custom. Almost forgot, they had a yachties bar that served discounted drinks (thank goodness). Downside was the huge rocking and rolling caused by wake from boats picking up and dropping off workers on the anchored ships in the bay. However we soon got used to that, just like being at sea!.

After Indo, Singapore was 'instant first world' again with prices to match. On the political front their single party democracy is an interesting take on how to run a country in the 21st century. Unlikely to get past the post in NZ.  Reminds us, YES we voted at the plush NZ High Comm off Orchard Road....those Dipos know how to spend our tax dollars.

The day we departed Singapore we motored passed hundreds of ships in the western anchorage which meshed into the Johor Bahru anchorage on the Malaysian side. Ports of Singapore are reclaiming hundreds of acres for new installations and much of this reclamation is just sitting consolidating before construction
commences. Our electronic charts were only 12 months old but already out of date with reclamation. We can understand why this reclamation is taking place because Singapore is seeking to increase its population from 4 to 6 million.

Singapore / Port Dickson Malaysia
This was an overnight sail 150 miles up the west coast of Malaysia in the Straits of Malacca which are an extension of the Straits of Singapore with nearly as much sea going traffic. Our 3hrs on 3hrs off watch system went so fast as we had ships in front, beside and behind all an average 3 minutes apart night and day. They moving at 25knots plus and us plonking along very happily at 6/7 knots. We took a berth at Admirals Marina Port Dickson
Relaxed in the hot sunny weather (in direct contrast to cloudy polluted Singapore) for three days before moving further north. As an aside we subsequently regretted not stopping en route at Malacca the ancient Chinese trading port reputedly developed by them in the 14th century. Will have to stop on the victory lap. P is currently reading '1421 The Year China Discovered the World' (see website) http://www.1421.tv/
Port Dickson / Lumut
A gutsy sail another 150 miles north passing Port Klang the seaport for Kuala Lumpur to reach Lumut which is the base for the Malaysian Navy. Here we sailed up a river to anchor off the town and participate in some hospitality provided by the local government including a tour of local highlights.
Pulau Pangkor
On leaving Lumut we moved to an adjacent island Pulau Pangkor which is the nearest holiday island to KL so very popular. Too touristy but we hired a scooter all the same and rode around the island checking out the local culture, industry and wildlife of which superb stands of big timber and cheeky monkeys were highlights.
Lumut / GeorgeTown Penang
An easy day sail north to the tourist hub of the west coast islands with Malaysia's electronics and computer software industry seemingly based here. This island is all about history and indeed it has just gained Unesco recognition for its heritage sites which hopefully will be bankrolled toward restoration. The old Georgetown architecture is worth saving as are the trishaw riders even if they are masters of deceit with gullible tourists.
The beaches though are no longer worthy of patronage as the rubbish and water quality is bad bad bad. Cruise liners anchor off GeorgeTown every second day discharging a never ending stream of tourists which is great for the local economy. We had good times here walking around the streets taking in the ambiance of the multicultural town it being Chinese, Indian and Malaya with each religion prominent. You can buy anything in the shops here but the word from other yachties was, 'don't trust the workmanship of the trades people'. 
Anniversary and Abrupt Wake Up
A highlight for us was a wedding anniversary dinner at the grand old circa 1890's Eastern and Oriental Hotel built by the same developers that then built Raffles Hotel in Singapore. A top but late night which was rudely interrupted at 6am the next morning by a yacht hitting Musketelles stern as it was trying to depart an adjacent berth in the Penang marina. A strong ebb tide was running and it got control of the departing yacht and pinned it sideways across our stern and that of our neighbour. We finally got him disengaged after 30 minutes with luckily no damage to us but some to him plus loss of face. We both returned to the bunk as we were still very tired from our late night. Can you believe an hour later another bloody yacht did exactly the same thing albeit this time he lost his engine power and the tide wacked him into our stern with a thud, annoyingly damaging our gelcoat.
We were doubly unimpressed particularly as he took 90 minutes to get off by which time sun was up and so were we. So ended our little anniversary celebration.
GeorgeTown / Langkawi
Another short but gutsy night sail further north to the jewel in the crown...the mountainous jungle clad island of Langkawi, off the extreme northern eastern corner of the country. This island is a top destination and in preceding times large sums have been invested in a superior road network around the island. We hired a car for a few days and were well rewarded. The island is a World Heritage geopark.

A must see is the 40degree  incline Gondola ride up to the second highest peak (700 metres above sea level). Another attraction is that Langkawi is a duty free destination for electronics, cigarettes, liquor and chocolate which appeared to be the prime reason most Malaysians had jetted in with the touristic highlights a side event. We tend to agree that many Malay's have black belts in shopping.
From a sailing point of view there are 5 major islands with numerous good anchorages and we could have spent a good few weeks here.

Langkawi / Ko Lipe Is Thailand
We are now full circle up to date. Its 3 days before Christmas and we want to wish all readers of our ramblings a merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Our plan is to sail north to have Christmas wherever the good ship Musketelle gets us to over the next few days and find a little beachside restaurant for some
Christmas faire.
We contemplate what the coming year will produce for us and where we will be this time next year.
Believe it or not the wind has just come up from the north east and we are about to go topsides to tie a few things down and put out a bit more anchor chain for a peaceful night. This is most unlike the tropics...but then we are now in the northern hemisphere and its winter somewhere north of here !!!
Peter and Barbara.....all at sea, but loving it !!