New Caledonia to Australia - crossing the Coral Sea
A sequence of daily at sea reports follows....
15 Nov 2007
Departed Noumea at 1630, thru Dumbea Pass 1755, now in open seas heading to Brisbane. Current pos 22 deg 24 s 166 08 e. Wind 18-23 kts from SE. Speed over ground 8 kts under 2 reefed main and staysail. Good sailing. We are keeping an eye on the cyclone to north. We are headed for Brisbane but our contingency plan is to run south and enter at Coffs or Sydney if the cyclone starts moving south down the Coral Sea.
16 Nov 2007
Hi, we are rocking along at between 6.5 and 8 kts depending on gusts. Wind is ESE/SE. Some biggish swells and the odd wave hitting us at a funny angle, but overall good sailing.
B has had a discussion with a fellow Kiwi cruiser who stated that 0000UTC is noon, and she gave him the benefit of the doubt. Now she says he is wrong as there is no such time in the 24 hour clock. 0001 is the first minute after midnight, 1200 is midday and 2400 is midnight. If he had been an Aussie she says she would have discounted straight away but since he seemed a sensible Kiwi she thought she better check before responding.
17 Nov 2007
Galloping along at average of 8 knots with winds from SE, less rolly since we turned at Capel Bank (shallow patch) having passed between Kelso and Capel Banks, nearer to Capel. Expecting ESE tomorrow which may slow us and probably bring back the rolly stuff. Very good run today. Saw first ship, P&O cruise liner, 7 miles off and closing to about 3.5 miles. Called it up on VHF radio, channel 16, but no reply which was a bit disappointing. Believe that many large ships no longer monitor channel 16 or maybe they just don't want to talk to yachts who ask silly questions like "can you see us clearly on your radar", which is what we were going to ask.
18 Nov 2007
Breeze 10-12 knots, have met the East Australian current which has carried us south off course by about 8 miles. Have taken out reefs in main to try and get more speed and claw back some of the southing. However wind is little to ESE to be helpful. Still, making good progress. Sunny and warm. Making for the North East Channel entry at top of Moreton Bay.
19 Nov 2007
Still in/on the Coral Sea en route from Noumea to Brisbane and it doesnt look any different to any other sea !! The same characteristics of wind on water and waves. Have not seen any coral or Nemo's.
As all quiet aboard thought readers might enjoy an insight into what its really like aboard Musketelle on an open ocean passage........ Its a bit 'tongue in cheek' in parts but step aboard for the ride and feel the motion.....
* It takes us both at least 48hrs to get into the rhythm of a passage
* Sleep deprivation is the first thing that hits you and gets you out of kilter
* The next thing is you dont feel all that hungry so with irregular sleep one gets tired very quickly
* The days and nights just mesh into one milieu all on a floating platform that is moving continuously
* Thats the big kicker the never ending motion from which you cannot escape
* Those skills learned as a kid on the jungle gym and at physed classes come into play
* Your hands become as important as your feet as you move crab like around the ship
* If we could run a video of our movements it would be very 'Monty Pythonesque'
* Balancing food can take on chimpanzee tea party similarity
* The cook taking two classic falls without sustaining bodily damage thankfully
* One hand for yourself and the other for the boat is the rule (not one for the plate & other for utensils)
* Time for shut eye we run a 3 hours on watch and 3 hours off watch rotation
* 4 sleeps per 24 compared with one big one at home sounds magic, but don't be fooled
* No nocturnal bliss because the boats always moving & awash with noise banging, crashing & wind howling
* You tend to half sleep listening for noises that alert you to what is happening all around
* You can sense when the vessel has changed direction, slowed or sped up or the sails need trimming
* Below decks its often fuggy, hot and sticky because all the hatches closed to stop saltwater ingress
* No time for conjugal rights as partners pass in the night from off watch to on watch keeping the bunk hot
* Going off watch best get out of your clothes have a bird bath, brush the teeth like normal, which it is not
* Put on a pair of those airline goggles to pretend its nightime and you are a 'Biggles on the Water'
* Now in the bunk which has a leacloth tied along the side to stop you being tossed out by a rogue wave
* Horizontal at last but your clammy body sticks to the sheets as the motion slops your innards around
* From your cranium to the tip of your toes you feel like you are a jellyman on a fairground ride
* In a bad dream your bunk could be likened to a sort of nautical coffin (reboot for another dream)
* When you are awoken its more of the same but hopefully another 20 plus miles closer to your destination
* As they say its the getting there that counts, right !!!
* The 'kerosene canary' is faster & easier but this is cleaner and greener and much heavier on the pocket
Anyone for cruising ?
20 Nov 2007
Landfall Australia
We round the northern end of Moreton Island at 0730 to enter the shipping channel and spend the morning sailing south across Moreton Bay and proceed to the customs dock inside Manly Marina arriving on lunchtime. Phew ! what a pleasure to be in Aust and the prospect of a nice cold beer and a big steak for lunch !! But wait, Australian Customs have to formally enter and clear us, and that takes time and is another story in itself !!
Friday, November 30, 2007
Thursday, November 15, 2007
New Caledonia - 15 Nov 2007
5 Nov 2007
Baie de Prony, New Caledonia
Sailed from We' at 5pm yesterday on a setting sun and decreasing breeze through the night and next morning started the steel sail to motor the final six hours in glass flat conditions through the Havannah Pass and the outer reef to reach Baie DeProny (22.22s 166.55e) at lunchtime. We are in a sheltered landlocked anchorage on the south coast of New Cal 35 miles from Noumea where we will stay for a few days to go ashore and explore. The surrounding high hills are red and eroded as result of surface strip nikel mining operations and the water in the anchorage is discoloured. Other than that its starkly beautiful in a way.
14 Nov 2007
Noumea, capital of New Caledonia
We are in Noumea, at the Port Moselle Marina. On our dock there are all visiting cruisers, mainly Aussies and quite a few French boats (not surprisingly).
When we came into Noumea it looked very sophisticated. The actual town centre has lots of mid to low rise shops interpersed with big buildings. Lots of one way streets and of course they drive on the wrong side of the road so crossing the road is more risky than sailing on passage.
The marina has good shower facilities and a well run office with English spoken, naturally as it is an international business. In town however it is different and our french or lack there of is showing. We were lucky that the boucherie had a Frenchman from Paris visiting who spoke Anglais was able to assist us to purchase lamb chops and New Zealand rump steak. As usual Peter broke the ice by referring to the rugby result.
The biggest shock here has been the environment. You will see from our anchorage in Bonne Anse, Baie du Prony, the horrific erosion in the hills. This area was pretty much deforested and then mined and clearly the land cannot recover. Every time it rains large volumes of bright red mud wash straight down into the Baie du Prony and the coral and seabed is being smothered in most bays. There are huge nickel mining operations still in progress and in the next bay from our anchorage there is a huge development that makes Solid Energy's NZ West Coast operations look like childs play. Even though parts of the area are now designated parks there is no sign of any remedial action going on.
Just as bad is Noumea itself. This "sophisticated" town simply pongs, especially at night. We talked to a New Cal French lady from the catamaran next door, who had just finished a 3 year circumnavigation. Before leaving New Cal she worked for the town council and said the town has outgrown the sewerage system and there is not the ability to fix it. We can't believe that it cannot be done so presumably she meant there was not the will to do so. Also disappointing is the rubbish dropped around the market place and funny little fair ground adjacent the port. Plastic bottles, plastic bags and general rubbish are dumped in or blow into the harbour. At night we are firing up the aircon, having the benefit of dock power, and this allows us to avoid the smell.
On a brighter note we love the bread and are indulging in major "nibbles" with baguettes, cheeses and pates.
We have been watching the weather, as are all the cruisers planning to head to NZ or Aust. It is all on for us for a departure to Aust tomorrow (Thursday)and we have decided that we will go to Brisbane (Manly is the clearance port). We had been planning on going to Coffs Harbour and then down to Sydney but having given it further thought we do not need to be in Sydney so soon and we have not sailed into Brisbane whereas we have sailed into Sydney (one of us multiple times!).
Will confirm that we have headed off once we are underway. Hope all are well.
Baie de Prony, New Caledonia
Sailed from We' at 5pm yesterday on a setting sun and decreasing breeze through the night and next morning started the steel sail to motor the final six hours in glass flat conditions through the Havannah Pass and the outer reef to reach Baie DeProny (22.22s 166.55e) at lunchtime. We are in a sheltered landlocked anchorage on the south coast of New Cal 35 miles from Noumea where we will stay for a few days to go ashore and explore. The surrounding high hills are red and eroded as result of surface strip nikel mining operations and the water in the anchorage is discoloured. Other than that its starkly beautiful in a way.
14 Nov 2007
Noumea, capital of New Caledonia
We are in Noumea, at the Port Moselle Marina. On our dock there are all visiting cruisers, mainly Aussies and quite a few French boats (not surprisingly).
When we came into Noumea it looked very sophisticated. The actual town centre has lots of mid to low rise shops interpersed with big buildings. Lots of one way streets and of course they drive on the wrong side of the road so crossing the road is more risky than sailing on passage.
The marina has good shower facilities and a well run office with English spoken, naturally as it is an international business. In town however it is different and our french or lack there of is showing. We were lucky that the boucherie had a Frenchman from Paris visiting who spoke Anglais was able to assist us to purchase lamb chops and New Zealand rump steak. As usual Peter broke the ice by referring to the rugby result.
The biggest shock here has been the environment. You will see from our anchorage in Bonne Anse, Baie du Prony, the horrific erosion in the hills. This area was pretty much deforested and then mined and clearly the land cannot recover. Every time it rains large volumes of bright red mud wash straight down into the Baie du Prony and the coral and seabed is being smothered in most bays. There are huge nickel mining operations still in progress and in the next bay from our anchorage there is a huge development that makes Solid Energy's NZ West Coast operations look like childs play. Even though parts of the area are now designated parks there is no sign of any remedial action going on.
Just as bad is Noumea itself. This "sophisticated" town simply pongs, especially at night. We talked to a New Cal French lady from the catamaran next door, who had just finished a 3 year circumnavigation. Before leaving New Cal she worked for the town council and said the town has outgrown the sewerage system and there is not the ability to fix it. We can't believe that it cannot be done so presumably she meant there was not the will to do so. Also disappointing is the rubbish dropped around the market place and funny little fair ground adjacent the port. Plastic bottles, plastic bags and general rubbish are dumped in or blow into the harbour. At night we are firing up the aircon, having the benefit of dock power, and this allows us to avoid the smell.
On a brighter note we love the bread and are indulging in major "nibbles" with baguettes, cheeses and pates.
We have been watching the weather, as are all the cruisers planning to head to NZ or Aust. It is all on for us for a departure to Aust tomorrow (Thursday)and we have decided that we will go to Brisbane (Manly is the clearance port). We had been planning on going to Coffs Harbour and then down to Sydney but having given it further thought we do not need to be in Sydney so soon and we have not sailed into Brisbane whereas we have sailed into Sydney (one of us multiple times!).
Will confirm that we have headed off once we are underway. Hope all are well.
Monday, November 5, 2007
Loyalty Islands - 04 Nov 2007
31 Oct 2007
Baie de Doking, Lifou Island, Loyalty Islands
We sight Lifou Island in the Loyalty's early yesterday morning 31 Oct in worsening weather so with 16 miles to go to We (pronounced whey), in 34 knots and rough seas on a lee shore, we turn and ru off to the west around the top of Lifou. Anchoring in Baie de Doking in a nice sheltered situation under impressive high cliffs which is protecting us from the E/SE swells. Had a hearty breakfast/lunch, and collapsed into the bunk and awoke on dusk so decided to stay put for the night.
01 Nov 2007
We, Lifou Island, Loyalty Islands
Arrived We' (pronounced Way) lunchtime today, motoring all the way round the coast from Baie de Doking - about 5 hours as we were pretty much heading into the wind. There were very big swells, we estimate some at least 6 metres, and depending on the proximity of the various headlands we passed we got varying wind driven waves on top. Took some very big waves but Muskie was not fazed and neither was her crew. B is wearing her chinese acupuncture wrist bands compliments and they seem to be doing a good job.
When we arrived in We no one from the marina answered our VHF calls so we tied up to a wharf at the entrance which was a low concrete thing and poor Muskie got a couple of nasty scratches when the fenders lifted in the swell. Nothing that can't be touched up.
Peter scaled a 6 ft fence to get into the marina proper but no one official was around. So asking other yachts he found out it was a New Cal public holiday so we have helped ourselves to a berth, a tight fit, we are the biggest yacht in the marina, which is very small. We are flying the Q flag which means we are not to go ashore or communicate with anyone unofficial until we have cleared customs and quarantine. Yeah right!.
So went to the gas station which sells groceries and tried to buy some nice french bread but we only had Euros and surprise, they only take Pacific Francs!!! So no bread, but did get a nice hot shower in the marina shower block. Tonight eating our Vanuatu scotch fillet tonight before Quarantine get here as otherwise they reportedly would take it away!.
Will probably head to Noumea tomorrow which is an overnighter and need to go through Havannah Pass in day light. Probably anchor in Baie du Prony once through the pass and then go on to Noumea the following day. However we may stay one more day here in We, not sure until we see customs tomorrow and check out the weather.
04 Nov 2007
We, Lifou Island
Well what a magic place We on the island of Lifou turned out to be. Having now departed after 4 days it is time to reflect....We arrived from Vanuatu in some boisterous weather and snuck into the the tiny marina which was only opened in 2003 to attract yachties that have previously bypassed this island group.
Once we got ship shape and got cleared in we were off to the nearest ATM for local Sth Pacific Francs and then to the supermarket for fresh french bread and fresh food...glorious French food and all at Kiwi prices surprisingly. Also purchased a nice light beer "Kronenburg 1664" and a bottle of Blanc de Blanc.
The major treat for us is dairy produce...yoghurt, designer cheeses etc etc but no fresh milk since leaving NZ its been all UHT. When we get to Aust we are going to get a yoghurt maker and grow our own culture as weetbix are inedible without the stuff !!
All the other yachties here are French or New Caledonian so Barbara is testing her schoolgirl French on them and Peter is bluffing his way with a combination of acting and international sign language that he has always relyed and swears never lets him down....'Look em in the eye and keep the smile at the ready !! No understanding of French is required when it comes to the RWC as the French guys are equally excited that they dealt to the AB's as they are the Poms got beaten in the final.
As there were never any taxi's each time we went to town we put the finger out and we were picked up instantly. It was not until we hitched a ride into the town for dinner on Saturday evening that we met a real local.... a Kanak chief, the Kanaks being the ethic Melanesian people of New Cal and the Loyalty Islands.
French speaking and English challenged Chief Michel Luepak stopped as we hitched a ride outside the marina and delivered us to a restaurant in town. Michel circa 55yrs and father of 6 off-spring ranging from 6 to 26yrs is a very busy man with a dual role in life. In Noumea where he lives he is the headmaster at a local primary school but once a month he flys back to We for the weekend to fulfill his chiefly duties to his village of 600 souls.
He went to great trouble to tell us that he is a small chief only, but next morning when he collected us from the boat to visit his village we were more than impressed by his spread out village all just 5kms from town beside the lagoon.
Here we are 10am on a Sunday morning and after walking us around the beautiful lawned village he took us into his childhood home, the chiefs house overlooking the lagoon. He opens the shutters and sits us down to can you believe, a bottle of Johnny Walker to celebrate our meeting, and its just gone bloody 10am on a Sunday morning....We soon joined the dots as he like us is a non-practising Protestant. Seems the London Missionary Society rocked up to the Loyalty Islands in the 1830's before the other faiths and the whole population is Protestant which is an oddity in largely Catholic New Cal.
Must tell you after the dinner on Sat night the cashier at the restaurant gave us a ride back to the marina which was much appreciated as it was about 4km and pitch black as no street lights. Native Kanak Sondra by name, proudly informed us a few years back she had spent time a most enjoyable time Christchurch Polytech on an English language course with a visit to Queenstown the highlight of her trip.
Must say the quality of life here seems a notch up on the other Pacific islands with the French obviously doshing the Francs around....big modern hospital, local body offices and general air of efficiency with good roading and power reticulation to villages. The people dress well with the ladies in colourful dress and floral headwear. The quality of the vehicular rolling stock is somewhat younger than NZ with small Peugeot and Renualts de-riguer.
Back to the sailing business we spent the rest of Sunday prepping Musketelle for the overnight crossing to New Caledonia. This included emptying our water tanks of the limey and scaley Port Vila water and refilling with the absolutely magic We water...we now have 700 litres of We water to consume.
Baie de Doking, Lifou Island, Loyalty Islands
We sight Lifou Island in the Loyalty's early yesterday morning 31 Oct in worsening weather so with 16 miles to go to We (pronounced whey), in 34 knots and rough seas on a lee shore, we turn and ru off to the west around the top of Lifou. Anchoring in Baie de Doking in a nice sheltered situation under impressive high cliffs which is protecting us from the E/SE swells. Had a hearty breakfast/lunch, and collapsed into the bunk and awoke on dusk so decided to stay put for the night.
01 Nov 2007
We, Lifou Island, Loyalty Islands
Arrived We' (pronounced Way) lunchtime today, motoring all the way round the coast from Baie de Doking - about 5 hours as we were pretty much heading into the wind. There were very big swells, we estimate some at least 6 metres, and depending on the proximity of the various headlands we passed we got varying wind driven waves on top. Took some very big waves but Muskie was not fazed and neither was her crew. B is wearing her chinese acupuncture wrist bands compliments and they seem to be doing a good job.
When we arrived in We no one from the marina answered our VHF calls so we tied up to a wharf at the entrance which was a low concrete thing and poor Muskie got a couple of nasty scratches when the fenders lifted in the swell. Nothing that can't be touched up.
Peter scaled a 6 ft fence to get into the marina proper but no one official was around. So asking other yachts he found out it was a New Cal public holiday so we have helped ourselves to a berth, a tight fit, we are the biggest yacht in the marina, which is very small. We are flying the Q flag which means we are not to go ashore or communicate with anyone unofficial until we have cleared customs and quarantine. Yeah right!.
So went to the gas station which sells groceries and tried to buy some nice french bread but we only had Euros and surprise, they only take Pacific Francs!!! So no bread, but did get a nice hot shower in the marina shower block. Tonight eating our Vanuatu scotch fillet tonight before Quarantine get here as otherwise they reportedly would take it away!.
Will probably head to Noumea tomorrow which is an overnighter and need to go through Havannah Pass in day light. Probably anchor in Baie du Prony once through the pass and then go on to Noumea the following day. However we may stay one more day here in We, not sure until we see customs tomorrow and check out the weather.
04 Nov 2007
We, Lifou Island
Well what a magic place We on the island of Lifou turned out to be. Having now departed after 4 days it is time to reflect....We arrived from Vanuatu in some boisterous weather and snuck into the the tiny marina which was only opened in 2003 to attract yachties that have previously bypassed this island group.
Once we got ship shape and got cleared in we were off to the nearest ATM for local Sth Pacific Francs and then to the supermarket for fresh french bread and fresh food...glorious French food and all at Kiwi prices surprisingly. Also purchased a nice light beer "Kronenburg 1664" and a bottle of Blanc de Blanc.
The major treat for us is dairy produce...yoghurt, designer cheeses etc etc but no fresh milk since leaving NZ its been all UHT. When we get to Aust we are going to get a yoghurt maker and grow our own culture as weetbix are inedible without the stuff !!
All the other yachties here are French or New Caledonian so Barbara is testing her schoolgirl French on them and Peter is bluffing his way with a combination of acting and international sign language that he has always relyed and swears never lets him down....'Look em in the eye and keep the smile at the ready !! No understanding of French is required when it comes to the RWC as the French guys are equally excited that they dealt to the AB's as they are the Poms got beaten in the final.
As there were never any taxi's each time we went to town we put the finger out and we were picked up instantly. It was not until we hitched a ride into the town for dinner on Saturday evening that we met a real local.... a Kanak chief, the Kanaks being the ethic Melanesian people of New Cal and the Loyalty Islands.
French speaking and English challenged Chief Michel Luepak stopped as we hitched a ride outside the marina and delivered us to a restaurant in town. Michel circa 55yrs and father of 6 off-spring ranging from 6 to 26yrs is a very busy man with a dual role in life. In Noumea where he lives he is the headmaster at a local primary school but once a month he flys back to We for the weekend to fulfill his chiefly duties to his village of 600 souls.
He went to great trouble to tell us that he is a small chief only, but next morning when he collected us from the boat to visit his village we were more than impressed by his spread out village all just 5kms from town beside the lagoon.
Here we are 10am on a Sunday morning and after walking us around the beautiful lawned village he took us into his childhood home, the chiefs house overlooking the lagoon. He opens the shutters and sits us down to can you believe, a bottle of Johnny Walker to celebrate our meeting, and its just gone bloody 10am on a Sunday morning....We soon joined the dots as he like us is a non-practising Protestant. Seems the London Missionary Society rocked up to the Loyalty Islands in the 1830's before the other faiths and the whole population is Protestant which is an oddity in largely Catholic New Cal.
Must tell you after the dinner on Sat night the cashier at the restaurant gave us a ride back to the marina which was much appreciated as it was about 4km and pitch black as no street lights. Native Kanak Sondra by name, proudly informed us a few years back she had spent time a most enjoyable time Christchurch Polytech on an English language course with a visit to Queenstown the highlight of her trip.
Must say the quality of life here seems a notch up on the other Pacific islands with the French obviously doshing the Francs around....big modern hospital, local body offices and general air of efficiency with good roading and power reticulation to villages. The people dress well with the ladies in colourful dress and floral headwear. The quality of the vehicular rolling stock is somewhat younger than NZ with small Peugeot and Renualts de-riguer.
Back to the sailing business we spent the rest of Sunday prepping Musketelle for the overnight crossing to New Caledonia. This included emptying our water tanks of the limey and scaley Port Vila water and refilling with the absolutely magic We water...we now have 700 litres of We water to consume.
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