WE ESCAPE TURKLAND
Well we finally escaped from Turkland over 2 years after we first arrived. It was not the plan to stay that long but thats how it panned out and we really enjoyed the experience getting to mostly understand the Turks and
respect them. The stomach will miss the many varied tastes that we came to enjoy too.
But at last we are on the way again heading west after a full-on month in the boatyard in Bodrum and then another unplanned 2 weeks resolving a few problems competely out of left field but finally we were ready as we were ever going to be and the anchor was raised 17 June.
Musketelle is looking great with practically all systems working on song. The biggies that make life so much more attractive is the 12v refrigeration that runs off the solar panels and wind generator and the real biggie the watermaker churning out 90 litres of pure drinkable water per hour which from B's point of view means the ability to run the washing machine when required without worrying about water.
Its now the the last day of June as we write this posting, halfway through the year as we are anchored at Katakolon on the north west corner of the Peloponnisos Peninsula in Greece near the site of Olympia which we have just visited.
To fill in the gaps we departed Turkey 2 weeks ago for our 5th crossing of the Aegean Sea but it was not that simple.
This last week Greece has been hammered by unseasonal winds on both sides with force 8/9 gales (40/50 knots) out of the north roaring down both the Aegean and Ionian sides of the country caused by a stationary low over Cyprus to the east and a high pressure system over the western Med causing a hyperventilating squash zone. After a good start and some pleasant anchorages at islands en route we got stuck for 3 days at Milos Island in the South Aegean. We then rounded the Peloponnisos Peninsula in good weather only to cop some wholesome winds and seas in the Southern Ionian, so it's not all plain sailing.
Windmill on Greek Island of Epano Koufonisia
Sparkling clear water in the channel between Epano and Kato Koufonisia
Whilst killing time in Milos we checked in to Greece, going through the arbitrary gauntlet of officialdom getting the prized piece of paper, 'the transit log' that makes us legal for cruising Greek waters. The Water Police official asked us a few questions
Where have we come from ? answer Turkey
How many persons aboard ? answer 2.
Next question... Any Turkeys?
You had to be there...aware of Greco/Turk relations we held straight faces and answered no, not daring to mention our little Turkish friend. But in saying that WiFi the well travelled wonder cat already has an EU Animal Passport from our visit last year so we did not have to worry but you can imagine trying to square that off.
Although Greece is technically bankrupt nothing has changed since we were here last year and on the surface everything is sweet. The ferries are racing all over the azzure seas, the Air Force F111'S are protecting the skies above, old men sit drinking Ouzo, young men race their cars and motorbikes and the cloudless sunny days colour all. The funny thing is the economy in the provinces as far as we can make out is good with systems and services operating and day to day trading, at the level we see, humming along...the shops are fully stocked and supplies not currently disrupted.
What happens when letters of credit facilities breakdown may change this rapidly if the banking system collapses. The ultimate show stopper would be petroleum product supply.
Talk to the man in the street and the problem is the Government in faraway Athens....shrug of the shoulders, not a problem. In other words its always been like this but the reality is that approach is going to change because with or without continued bailouts by the EU Greece is going to hit the wall. Its just what sort of aftershock and affects this will have is unknown. Maybe they figure Argentina has been there a few times and still survives. But Greece is in the Eurozone and that means very different rules apply.
What happens when letters of credit facilities breakdown may change this rapidly if the banking system collapses. The ultimate show stopper would be petroleum product supply.
Talk to the man in the street and the problem is the Government in faraway Athens....shrug of the shoulders, not a problem. In other words its always been like this but the reality is that approach is going to change because with or without continued bailouts by the EU Greece is going to hit the wall. Its just what sort of aftershock and affects this will have is unknown. Maybe they figure Argentina has been there a few times and still survives. But Greece is in the Eurozone and that means very different rules apply.
There is something about the way Greece is run or not run that has us completely confused which is not that different from our experiences in Turkey. There are never ending examples of misguided major capital
expenditure from the public purse that could be considered whims of individuals rather than in the interest of improvements for the community and those that reside in it. For example Pilos on the South Ionian side of the Peleponnisos Peninsula is the prettiest litle town spanning impressive clifftops, a well preserved Venetian Fort and a town full of French inspired architechture surrounding a magnificent town square all facing a sheltered bay with a town dock and a huge marina facility nearby.
Sounds perfect but.... but the marina is incomplete and has been this way for 20 years. The major structural breakwater and all concrete concourses are complete and its full of mostly delapidated boats. But there is no surrounding infrastructure and no power and water reticulated although all the wires are run and pipes and taps installed. It's full of old boats because its free to park.
Pilos Marina
A proactive circuit breaker could ignite these facilities to everyones benefit but there is some big secret surrounding what form that should be. Everyone we talked to just shrugged there shoulders and said 'problem'. The local water police were a little more forthcoming and said 'there were bigger problems in the town'. Pilos has huge potential but someone or something appears to be purposely holding it back and there are many other examples throughout the country. Yes Greece has us confused.
Back in Turkey things are not that different. In Bodrum the local council decided to rip up the bitumen and concrete sidewalks and pave the entire central business district in white marble !! But did nothing about upgrading the sewerage system or installing a stormwater system. So they still have streets that flood in downpours and the omnipresent whiff of sweetwater permeating the summer breeze....but they do have white marble pavements for the throngs of tourists.
The week before we departed Turkey they had their 4 yearly general election and the encumbent AKP Party were returned with a slightly reduced majority for a 3rd term. In contrast to Greece the Turkish economy is really on song with Turkey emerging as a stable trade partner and peace broker with eastern neighbours that the west often finds troublesome. Not surprising Turkey is now clearly less enamoured about joining the EU than she once was. The man in the street knows about the problem PIIGS (Portugal, Ireland, Italy, Greece & Spain) and being Muslims they want nothing to do with pork let alone the Euro. Controlling their own currency is clearly attractive.
But we digress.. back to Greece. Last week of June and we have hopped along the south coast of the Peloponnisos Peninsula passing the infamous Cape Maleas and then Cape Tainaron in perfect motoring weather.
Cape Tainaron Lighthouse
We stopped by some of the amazing caves and rock formations and P practised his yodelling with excellent echoes rebounding around the boat. Fortunately we were alone.
Good echoes from these caves.
We also admired the Venetian forts that controlled trade for hundreds of years, imagining the Venetian galleons being rowed up and down these coasts by the slave empowered economy of the day.
Turkish Tower and Venetian Fort at Methoni, south western corner of the Peloponnisos
At Katakolon on the Greek mainland we visited the ancient Olympia site home of the orginal Olympics precursor to the modern Olympics. Stunning array of ruins spread over hundreds of acres including the running track stadium.
One of the functioning and efficient Greek tourist schemes was the ability to travel to the Olympia site (about 30km from the port) on a new train especially operated for the 2 or 3 cruise liners per day that disgorge thousand of passengers every day of summer for the trip to Olympia....mass tourism on a grand scale and we cruisers of another ilk just blended in.
Some photos from Olympia
We now leave mainland Greece headed north, island hopping through the Ionian Sea to Corfu planning to spend July in the Adriatic. Winds will determine if we go all the way.
Thats it from planet Musketelle.
BP&w
