5 Nov 2007
Baie de Prony, New Caledonia
Sailed from We' at 5pm yesterday on a setting sun and decreasing breeze through the night and next morning started the steel sail to motor the final six hours in glass flat conditions through the Havannah Pass and the outer reef to reach Baie DeProny (22.22s 166.55e) at lunchtime. We are in a sheltered landlocked anchorage on the south coast of New Cal 35 miles from Noumea where we will stay for a few days to go ashore and explore. The surrounding high hills are red and eroded as result of surface strip nikel mining operations and the water in the anchorage is discoloured. Other than that its starkly beautiful in a way.
14 Nov 2007
Noumea, capital of New Caledonia
We are in Noumea, at the Port Moselle Marina. On our dock there are all visiting cruisers, mainly Aussies and quite a few French boats (not surprisingly).
When we came into Noumea it looked very sophisticated. The actual town centre has lots of mid to low rise shops interpersed with big buildings. Lots of one way streets and of course they drive on the wrong side of the road so crossing the road is more risky than sailing on passage.
The marina has good shower facilities and a well run office with English spoken, naturally as it is an international business. In town however it is different and our french or lack there of is showing. We were lucky that the boucherie had a Frenchman from Paris visiting who spoke Anglais was able to assist us to purchase lamb chops and New Zealand rump steak. As usual Peter broke the ice by referring to the rugby result.
The biggest shock here has been the environment. You will see from our anchorage in Bonne Anse, Baie du Prony, the horrific erosion in the hills. This area was pretty much deforested and then mined and clearly the land cannot recover. Every time it rains large volumes of bright red mud wash straight down into the Baie du Prony and the coral and seabed is being smothered in most bays. There are huge nickel mining operations still in progress and in the next bay from our anchorage there is a huge development that makes Solid Energy's NZ West Coast operations look like childs play. Even though parts of the area are now designated parks there is no sign of any remedial action going on.
Just as bad is Noumea itself. This "sophisticated" town simply pongs, especially at night. We talked to a New Cal French lady from the catamaran next door, who had just finished a 3 year circumnavigation. Before leaving New Cal she worked for the town council and said the town has outgrown the sewerage system and there is not the ability to fix it. We can't believe that it cannot be done so presumably she meant there was not the will to do so. Also disappointing is the rubbish dropped around the market place and funny little fair ground adjacent the port. Plastic bottles, plastic bags and general rubbish are dumped in or blow into the harbour. At night we are firing up the aircon, having the benefit of dock power, and this allows us to avoid the smell.
On a brighter note we love the bread and are indulging in major "nibbles" with baguettes, cheeses and pates.
We have been watching the weather, as are all the cruisers planning to head to NZ or Aust. It is all on for us for a departure to Aust tomorrow (Thursday)and we have decided that we will go to Brisbane (Manly is the clearance port). We had been planning on going to Coffs Harbour and then down to Sydney but having given it further thought we do not need to be in Sydney so soon and we have not sailed into Brisbane whereas we have sailed into Sydney (one of us multiple times!).
Will confirm that we have headed off once we are underway. Hope all are well.
