02 July 2008
Gulf Hopping
Musketelle has departed Seisa and is currently underway on the Gulf of Carpentaria. 12.10.133S 139.07.304E on passage to Gove the capital of Arnemland in the Northern Territory and planning to pass between Bremer Island and the mainland to reach Gove. We are currently a little bit off course too far south sailing due west at the moment but the winds are not permitting us to get northwest which is where we want to head. Swell is on the beam and not very comfortable but we will hang in and it will come right. Forecast is for SE 25-30 tonight so that should allow us more oomph to head northwest.
The Gulf is relatively shallow and is renowned for being very rough in wind against tide situations from practically any quarter but if it does cut up we will just think of the South Coast of Wellington and Cook Strait and the windchill factor and it will become insignificant.
The ultimate destination on this leg is Darwin where we expect to arrive 10/12 July subject as always to wind and tide and on this leg tide in particular is a real factor requiring close analysis because they are huge with up to 6 meters between high and low in places. Not counting on getting into a marina in Darwin - the place will be crawling with yachts (at least 150-200) and marina space at a premium. We may be lucky and get a few days on a marina berth if they are using the rotation system we heard about. We will anchor off the Darwin Sailing Club in Fannie Bay and play the tide game - staying in the bar too long could mean heaving the dink and outboard hundreds of meters across mudflats to get into the water at low tide.
06 July 2008
Arnhemland Visited
We have been and gone to Gove. We went into Melville Bay and its sub bay, Inverell Bay and anchored off the Gove Yacht Club which was very run done and not that flash. However friends who were there the previous week had a great time - think it needed a large cruiser crowd to make it fun as the local population only consists of mostly aboriginals sitting in the bar and pakehas (boguns) working at the mines and living on beaten up boats or tin sheds bordering the club. Gove township proper is 5km away and consists of a modern shopping precint with local milling around doing nothing. The local club for the mine management people was top notch and in contrast to everything else. New controversial anti-drinking laws seem to be working.
Gove to Darwin
07 July 2008
Heading for the Hole
On departing Gove we headed for Cape Don to go through either the Cumberland Strait or the aptly named 'Hole in the Wall' (the Gugari Rip) at 11.33S 136.22E. We went for the Hole and got the tides exactly right going through just after high tide on the beginning of the ebb which meant we got carried through east to west on a 4 note current. Very pretty - like a man made canal only with lovely natural layered low rocks on either side.
Like a Bullet
Immediately before entering the hole we had tried to furl our headsail but all we heard a loud bang/pinging sound which we subsequently established was a piece of metal breaking off the top of the headsail furler under extreme pressure as we tried to furl the headsail, caused by the stainless steel wire halyard wrapping around the top of the alloy furler and severing off a 30mm x 30mm section of the alloy furler. That piece then flew down like a bullet wizzing through the air and hit the dodger top piercing the gelcoat and chipping a mini 10mm crater into the structure. Bloody lucky that neither of us was in its trajectory. Did not pay to think of the possible consequences in this out of the way spot.
So we left the headsail up for the transit and motorsailed through without any trouble. On the western side we tried to unwrap the sail from the foil to get the headsail down and use our staysail on the inner forestay in its place but whilst doing this the wind came gusting in at over 20 knots from the SE and put paid to that. Try as we may we could not get the thing unwrapped and furthermore P was concerned even if we did the halyard might be jammed in the alloy foil and not allow us to drop the unfurled sail to the deck. So with the wind in the right quarter we elected to put the mainsail up and keep sailing west for North Goulburn Island and hope to get a patch of very light or no wind so we can unfurl fully and P can go up the mast.
08 July 2008
Lady Luck Smiles
1350hrs To continue with the next exciting instalment..Musketelle sailed on to North Goulburn where luck was on our side and the winds dropped to 12 knots. B had to go up to the radar reflector between the first and second spreaders to untangle a halyard which we had not noticed was too slack and wrapped itself around the refelector....what a gal !! Then P went up and transferred the genoa to the spare halyard and then untangled the halyard that had cut into the alloy foil like a butter knife and then we were able to drop the genoa to the deck and packed it away.
Nice anchorage at Mullet Bay and slept in the next morning (today). So now, very late having departed at 1215 CST, we are on our way to Malay Bay. Currently doing 7.5 - 8 kts with the staysail and second reef which is pleasing although the staysail is not actually doing much but we can't be bothered dropping it at this stage. This is first time we have put in a reef since we started from Scarborough. Not really essential in these conditions (SE 20-25 kts) but good practice. However as we have the wind right up our chuff we are wobbling along which is not the best comfort wise.
08 July 2008
Tide Timing
1610hrs
Currently surfing 2 metre waves in 15-20 knot wind passing Cape Cockburn. Doing 7-9 knots under second reefed main and staysail. Smoke hanging in the skies from someone burning off the country side. 15 miles to anchorage in Malay Bay, say 1.30hrs to go so it will be dark.
Tomorrow probably now will go straight to Port Essington rather than stop at Palm Bay as originally thought. Not sure yet about the Bowen Strait. Need to check the depths - our chart detail not that good and it looks shallow. Tides probably quite strong also, so will have to check the tide times. Can you access the Bureau of Met site and have a look at their tide info - there is some interactive programme that you can put place into and get tide info.
09 July 2008
With a Little Help
We have just been through the Bowen Strait - thanks Phil for the tide times. We have the Darwin times on board but not the data for the secondary ports so it was very helpful to know that Croker was 1hr 39 behind Darwin. This meant that we were a little late going through as the tide had been ebbing west for about 4 hours. Went on the Croker Island side of the channel and no problems at all until just past the end of the middle channel sandbank when all of a sudden we went down to 2.9 metres depth and since we draw 2.7 (and I think the depth sounder is reading 200 short) it was a little nervewracking - of course just at that moment the wind gusted to 35 kts and we were doing boat speed of 6.4 kts and Speed Over Ground of 9.4knots!! Little bit of excitement.
Now on our way to Black Point at the entrance to Port Essington to anchor for the night.
10 July 2008
Crocs at Alcaro
Currently battling the tide as we head to croc infested Alcaro Bay just before Cape Don. Will be at Cape Don 4.5 hours before Darwin Tide tonight (2338 high tide). This is meant to give best time through the Dundas Strait and then later on through the Vernons. Expect to be in Fannie Bay, Darwin, mid morning tomorrow.......
How it panned out....
We left Alcaro Bay at 1830 and were off Cape Don light at 1900, no wind!! After weeks of nothing less than 20 knots and mostly 25-35, we had to motor until 5 mins to midnight, when an 11 knot breeze came in. Did ok after that but as we were slower than planned we felt the ebb tide in the Van Diemem Gulf and did not put the staysail up until the Vernons,until then were under main only. Once that was up we did a respectable 7+ knots in winds flucuating up to 17 knots.
11 July 2008
Territory Reached
Right on que mid-morning we have arrived at Darwin capital of the Northern Territory, having covered 100+ miles in 18.5hrs is not bad considering the tides, winds and all the bends around reefs to get here. In the world of Musketelle this is a milestone given everything since we arrived in Australia has been about getting to Darwin. Its mid winter in NZ but here in Darwin its clear blue sky and 28c and we are anchored in 9 metres of water in Fannie Bay 1.5 miles from the beach and the Darwin Sailing Club (the de facto yacht club for all cruisers heading to Indonesia). There are, at a quick glance, about 60 yachts in the bay, most will be on the rally. Plus more are in marinas or still en route.
Just about to have a shower and then go ashore to report to Customs and check out the facilities and catch up with sailing friends. We have now made contact with upwards of 25 of the yachts out of the 120 in the fleet. Our Dutch/South African friends on Double Dutch even called us up on the VHF and offered to buy us some fresh bread and bring it out to us at anchor. We must remind them there is another important game on in Dunedin tomorrow night. Another until now unknown reason P was keen on getting in today !!
