Tea growing in steep hill countryThe question has been asked why we go weeks without a blog then all of a sudden they come thick and fast. Well when we are ashore we are busy doing things just like anyone and sometimes it all morphs into normality seemingly not worthy of comment, particularly if we are in the standard cruiser mode of fixing things.
When at sea, depending on sailing conditions and degrees of tiredness, we have time on our hands, although there may not be a lot to report....another day of blue skys, blue sea.....
When at sea, depending on sailing conditions and degrees of tiredness, we have time on our hands, although there may not be a lot to report....another day of blue skys, blue sea.....
Now to the present.
We arrived of Galle at 3am local time on 11 Feb and anchored in the bay noted in our cruising guide. Immediately we finished anchoring a boat appeared out of the dark, materialising as a small seriously armed RIB with 2 navy seals, they did not introduce, no this is lieutenant ... of the SL Navy or whatever. Just hand signalled we were anchored in a dangerous place (?? Tamils or waves?) and to follow them.
So we up anchor and re-anchor closer in to the harbour wall to await morning and daylight clearance to actually enter the harbour.
In the morning we called the harbourmaster who said we had to get cleared by the Navy before entering the harbour. We then would clear cusoms immigration, port control etc. To do this we have to have an agent and shortly after one of the two agents called up on the VHF and we "engaged" him to arrange our clearance in
for the horrific amount of USD225 !!!!! - the going rate including customs clearance and port dues. So far so good. That was 9 am. By 1400 nothing had happened. As P says "these buggers are seemingly not interested in welcoming us to splash the cash". Really, for USD225 the least they could do is turn up
promptly - but we are talking navy here so presumably no point in getting excited about it. However we came close to leaving for Cochin instead.
for the horrific amount of USD225 !!!!! - the going rate including customs clearance and port dues. So far so good. That was 9 am. By 1400 nothing had happened. As P says "these buggers are seemingly not interested in welcoming us to splash the cash". Really, for USD225 the least they could do is turn up
promptly - but we are talking navy here so presumably no point in getting excited about it. However we came close to leaving for Cochin instead.
We finally got cleared in and moored stern-to to a plastic floating pontoon with a couple of other boats. More yachts are tied up to the wall.
It is now Wednesday 18 Feb and we have just returned to Musketelle after a 4 day 1000k road trip that must go down as variously the most fascinating, entertaining, dangerous and scenic trip we have done on this voyage to date. After some days here we are left scratching our crania asking where Sri Lanka is headed because it is in a total state of chaos with no sign of direction to extricate itself from its unenviable position in no small way affected by its internal war with the Tamils. Taking each element in turn:
1) Fascinating:
The general public infrastructure (and the tourism infrastructure) is sadly in tatters/non existent after 20 years of internal strife with the Tamil fight for an independent state. Something that a country this size cannot justify. It would be like the tribes of the East Coast seeking independence for the area in a line from Opotiki to Gisborne and northeast. The Tamil scrap is in the northeast of Sri Lanka but the effects are felt throughout as evidenced by road blocks everywhere and armed soldiers lurking around villages, railway lines, intersections, road bridges and major buildings and industrial sites. This is a country on a war footing and nowhere is more evident than the port fortress we are anchored in. Each night floating pontoons are drawn across the harbour
entrance and the place is closed for the night. We enter the facility through patrolled gates where we show our passes to get in and out and once inside there are army and navy personnel everywhere. Within 150 metres of where we are anchored there are three armed sentry posts with sandbags and camouflage. The
individual military are very pleasant if one says hello to them and we do not feel personally intimidated.
entrance and the place is closed for the night. We enter the facility through patrolled gates where we show our passes to get in and out and once inside there are army and navy personnel everywhere. Within 150 metres of where we are anchored there are three armed sentry posts with sandbags and camouflage. The
individual military are very pleasant if one says hello to them and we do not feel personally intimidated.
Then of course there was the Boxing Day 2004 Tsunami, affecting the south and lower east Coasts, including Galle where we are now. There is evidence of the disaster in places but there has cetainly been significant aid programmes to rebuild housing and infrastrucure (still ongoing eg. the EU is currently funding road improvements along the coast).
The other issue is population, simply to many people, everywhere one looks. We have had to attune for some of the most aggresive and dishonest people we have come across, making our stay rather uncomfortable. We do not mean the classic pickpocket model (no doubt they exist as in most countries) - no, the Sri Lankan model is much more robust - these guys are masters at cheating you face to face without blinking and its everyhere except seemingly in the really top international hotels of which there are a limited number located primarily in Colombo. Its your money they are after and they use that hardy old strategy.... parallel pricing with all tourists being targeted with special price....the super loaded tourist price. Everywhere and everyone seems to be duty bound to rip you off from governent agencies through to the shopkeeper. We regretably have concluded that individual Sri Lanakans are hard wired to fleece. We cannot work out whether its just tourists or if it happens between the locals too, albeit at a different level. Some amusing examples we experienced......
* Govt Port Authority USD 225 for privilege of entering country, dearest so far.
* Customs officer taking B aside and demanding a bottle of scotch "for customs". When this was refused, after over five minutes of continual pressure,he summoned P and tried it on with him. P the softie gave him 4 cans of beer. We heard afterwards that some Americans had handed over whiskey and others wine, whilst most of the Europeans refused outright.
* Train Fare 180 Rupees each (we had enquired the day before) but on the day charged 200 each - so 40 rupees to the pocket of the man behind the counter -only about 80 cents but sooo typical! We had to laugh.
* Tuk Tuk (three wheeler taxi) - as far as we can make out the standard tourist rate is at least 4-5 times the going rate for locals - with some opportunistic types try for 8 times!
* Rental Car - told we would have a choice of price range but when we got there (thats a story in itself) only the more expensive cars were suddenly available. Furthermore we noticed (fortunately before signing) that the contract was based on days not 24hour periods so our 4 day hire had reduced to 3 days 4 hours having regard to our pick up time. When we pointed it out it was changed without to much of astruggle - just a try on. Car provided completely empty of petrol - barely made it to gas station - as a policy they siphon any remaining petrol from the cars on their return - hirers of course seldom take the risk of running out of gas so the cars are never returned empty.
* National Park 5000 rupee NZ$100 to drive 30km through a park which spans a public road - we were only transiting and not stopping but still the charge - and no signage or information to tell you that the road suddenly turns into a toll road at 3000 metres above sea level having climbed a road disguised as a goat track to find, at the top of the hill, a barrier and man wanting money. Locals are charged 250 rupees NZ$5!!
*Game Reserve National Park - 9500 rupees NZ$190 for entrance and a 2.5hr viewing with a driver in a jeep - not so bad perhaps but the "but" is that the gate is about 200 metres before the ranger station and is manned by the ever present touts who determine the cost - there is no signage or any official presence whatsoever to indicate what the park costs are and one cannot get into the park, not even to the ranger station, without dealing with the touts first. Just creates an uncomfortable feeling of yet again being rippedoff.
* Locals wanting money for P taking photo on public beach. Thought this was really cute.
* Govt Port Authority USD 225 for privilege of entering country, dearest so far.
* Customs officer taking B aside and demanding a bottle of scotch "for customs". When this was refused, after over five minutes of continual pressure,he summoned P and tried it on with him. P the softie gave him 4 cans of beer. We heard afterwards that some Americans had handed over whiskey and others wine, whilst most of the Europeans refused outright.
* Train Fare 180 Rupees each (we had enquired the day before) but on the day charged 200 each - so 40 rupees to the pocket of the man behind the counter -only about 80 cents but sooo typical! We had to laugh.
* Tuk Tuk (three wheeler taxi) - as far as we can make out the standard tourist rate is at least 4-5 times the going rate for locals - with some opportunistic types try for 8 times!
* Rental Car - told we would have a choice of price range but when we got there (thats a story in itself) only the more expensive cars were suddenly available. Furthermore we noticed (fortunately before signing) that the contract was based on days not 24hour periods so our 4 day hire had reduced to 3 days 4 hours having regard to our pick up time. When we pointed it out it was changed without to much of astruggle - just a try on. Car provided completely empty of petrol - barely made it to gas station - as a policy they siphon any remaining petrol from the cars on their return - hirers of course seldom take the risk of running out of gas so the cars are never returned empty.
* National Park 5000 rupee NZ$100 to drive 30km through a park which spans a public road - we were only transiting and not stopping but still the charge - and no signage or information to tell you that the road suddenly turns into a toll road at 3000 metres above sea level having climbed a road disguised as a goat track to find, at the top of the hill, a barrier and man wanting money. Locals are charged 250 rupees NZ$5!!
*Game Reserve National Park - 9500 rupees NZ$190 for entrance and a 2.5hr viewing with a driver in a jeep - not so bad perhaps but the "but" is that the gate is about 200 metres before the ranger station and is manned by the ever present touts who determine the cost - there is no signage or any official presence whatsoever to indicate what the park costs are and one cannot get into the park, not even to the ranger station, without dealing with the touts first. Just creates an uncomfortable feeling of yet again being rippedoff.
* Locals wanting money for P taking photo on public beach. Thought this was really cute.
Hotels and Eateries
Well ... basically unless you stay in the Hilton or the small group of similar international hotels (and pay accordingly) it is dificult to find accommodation that is bearable and finding cafes or restaurants one felt capable of eating in nigh on impossible. The first night we stayed in Hatton at a mid range hotel - up in the hill country - cold, wearing polar fleece jackets as no heating. The room had a rock hard bed with only a bottom sheet. We had to ask for a top sheet and blankets. Do the locals bring their own? Hot water was available for the morning shower via a tiny elecric cylinder - had to reheat the water between soaping up and washing off but that was ok. Management was very pleasant and the waiter a lovely chap but the closest we have ever come to Manuel of Fawlty Towers, scurrying up and down the steep driveway to their roadside cafe below to get our food and drinks. In the morning we ate in the cafe to save him the trouble.
We were the only foreign guests, with only 2 other rooms out of 20 occupied, the neighbouring one by a hoiker who nauseated us before he went to bed and when he got up in the morning with the sounds of his ablutions.
We were the only foreign guests, with only 2 other rooms out of 20 occupied, the neighbouring one by a hoiker who nauseated us before he went to bed and when he got up in the morning with the sounds of his ablutions.
Second night we stayed at the 30 room Olympus Plaza Hotel at Haputale - is trying very hard to be a classy hotel - very clean, heated, very pleasant people, great view, great shower with lots of hot water. Bed also hard but we suspect inner spung mattresses are not common and probably very expensive. Apart from one other guest, a German lady we think with her driver/guide, no one was there. This is the story of tourisim in Sri lanka - there are no tourists. Very sad. It also explains the poor accommodation and lack of eateries - no tourists now to support what clearly had been a reasonable tourism infrastructure 20+ years ago.
Cannot leave this section without mentioning the dogs, thousands of dogs, clearly not pets, more like displaced wildlife. Hungry, mange ridden dogs wandering around scavenging and lying around on the roads and adding no value to Sri Lankan life. We had difficulty determining which of the dogs lying on the road as we approached was dead or just sleeping. They even roam this port base in large packs, continually mating.
You could say this is good training for what is to come in the Middle East and Egypt but it sure takes some getting used to. We now think fondly of Indonesia and realise it is sophisticated compared with this lot and much friendlier to boot. Indonesians always smiled and said hello, sadly few Sri Lankans do.
2) Entertaining:
See Facinating above and Driving Miss Daisy and Scenic below.
See Facinating above and Driving Miss Daisy and Scenic below.
3) Driving Miss Daisy....not likely:
Road Code ? what road code ? and what antics!. This is the land of road users with a death wish, drivers, pedestrians, cyclists, scooter and tuk tuk riders, cows and dogs and the roads themselves. These are the components that make up the lethal mix that vie to outsmart each other every day and night and make Thai
drivers look like ederly Brits out for a Sunday drive on country roads.
Road Code ? what road code ? and what antics!. This is the land of road users with a death wish, drivers, pedestrians, cyclists, scooter and tuk tuk riders, cows and dogs and the roads themselves. These are the components that make up the lethal mix that vie to outsmart each other every day and night and make Thai
drivers look like ederly Brits out for a Sunday drive on country roads.
The Rules of Battle
- Never break
- Never break
- Always Drive Aggresively be it in village, city or open road
- Create Multiple Lanes regardless of side of the centre line that puts you on
- Always Pass on bends or the inside
- Always Drive On or Over the Centerline even when a passing lane exists
- Leave Indicator Flashing, not to indicate turning, but rather that you will at
some stage pass the guy in front, either on the inside or the outside.
- Flash Headlights not as a courtesy but to indicate you are committed to a
passing manouvre irrespective of oncoming traffic (which must move off the road)
- Use your air horn continuously to announce your pending arrival to anyone and
- Create Multiple Lanes regardless of side of the centre line that puts you on
- Always Pass on bends or the inside
- Always Drive On or Over the Centerline even when a passing lane exists
- Leave Indicator Flashing, not to indicate turning, but rather that you will at
some stage pass the guy in front, either on the inside or the outside.
- Flash Headlights not as a courtesy but to indicate you are committed to a
passing manouvre irrespective of oncoming traffic (which must move off the road)
- Use your air horn continuously to announce your pending arrival to anyone and
everything in front of you with the biggest having precedence (again irrespective of
oncoming traffic)
- All Following Vehicles must overtake at every opportunity and if opportunity not
- All Following Vehicles must overtake at every opportunity and if opportunity not
obvious create one.
- in an endeavour to see beyond the vehicle in front one should travel to the right
of the vehicle in front, regardless of what lane that puts one in, this results in a line
of vehicles moving crablike down the road, weaving left as oncoming traffic
(which is doing the same thing) passes.
Learner Drivers seemingly learn to drive at 10kph with the instructor at the wheel in a van filled with say 10 learner drivers as passaengers. We saw several of these vans. Iimagine the scene in the van... Instructor tells the class "now we are all going to turn left from this side road onto the main road, all pretend to put on your indicator and pull out immediately so that the traffic on the road has to stop or swerve around you - good class ...."
Cyclists are everywhere on these big black bikes with single sprocket gearing that makes start up speed slow and wobbily and uphill work wobbily and exhausting. These guys double and triple others on the crossbar and a big sack of rice or bundle of wood can be transported no problem.
Pedestrians out number vehicles in most areas and walk on the road as there are no footpaths (not even on the new EU funded roads which is plain stupid). Since the road is also the footpath the pedestrians walk 2 or 3 wide resulting in vehicles swerving to avoid them and adding to the general mayhem.
Bus Drivers come in for the worst rap of all. They are the 'ultimate road ragers' competing with each other in a race for passengers and to get there first. We kept asking ourselves "what drugs is he on" as yet another bus performed a kamikaze move in front of us. Of all the passing manouvres we saw these guys take the cake (even driving us off the road yesterday between Colombo and Galle). Classic behaviours include high speed, weaving, overtaking directly into oncoming traffic and on bends, stopping suddenly to pick up passengers with no indication and without pulling over, overtaking and THEN immediately stopping for passengers causing the vehicle just overtaken to go up the backside. Having seen the driving there was no way we were going to catch a bus from Colombo to Galle even though the locals said it was more comfortable than the train.
Tuk Tuk Drivers are the local heroes, driving the little 3 wheelers everywhere from coast road to mountain top but they hug the centre line beyond their speed capability and tend to zig and zag upredictably. However they pull over when blasted by the horn, mesh into the flow of traffic with aplomb and provide a lot of colour. Saw one carrying two passegers and a tractor tyre.
Drivers in general we concluded lack peripheral vision - straight ahead fast as possible is the most efficient use of energy. P decided to educate the locals by demonstrating safe driving practices. B pointed out that was the quickest way to get us killed - eg. P would overtake then pull over to the left as far as possible to demonstrate to the overtakee that it was not necessary to hug the centreline - trouble was P would then run up against a pedestrian, cyclist, dog, cow or provide an opportunity for the overtakee and the hordes behind to squeeze past us again. B insisted he drive like a local - full noise, sitting on the horn.
The Roads themselves
Well these are based on tracks probably forged in the late 1800's and mostly a collection of bitumen patches to make a cobbled surface that gives the car a musical resonance. Thank goodness it was a rental. Some roads are more pothole than bitumen. The engineering in forging these roads in the steep hill country is a credit to their forebears, no doubt funded by the tea growing industry.
Several times we got lost or thought we had got lost as we would be on an A road which suddenly took on all the appearance of a Z road. But no it was still the A road - just going through a bad patch.
4) Scenic:
The island of Sri Lankan has some magnificent scenery all within a close driveable area. It beats NZ in many aspects. Lovely sandy beaches, crashing surf beaches, lowland forest, padi fields, stunning hill country resplendant with manicured tea plantations and cropping fields, safari parks. Even a fledgling dairy industry including a huge farm named 'New Zealand'.
The island of Sri Lankan has some magnificent scenery all within a close driveable area. It beats NZ in many aspects. Lovely sandy beaches, crashing surf beaches, lowland forest, padi fields, stunning hill country resplendant with manicured tea plantations and cropping fields, safari parks. Even a fledgling dairy industry including a huge farm named 'New Zealand'.
Cropping is conducted on heavily terraced hllsides, all manual cultivation. The vegetables are first class. The people work very hard and walk long distances. People who have houses generally keep them very tidy with swept yards and neat gardens. Rubbish is piled on the roadside or down banks and burnt from time to time. Flip side is the shacks/hovels crammed between road and rail or rail and beach or road and river. Small towns are pretty horrendous - we felt quite happywalking in the small towns in Indonesia and Malaysia but we were not enthused about getting out of the car in Sri Lankan towns. It was not a personal safety
issue as such, just plain dirty, crammed, traffic chaos. Nowhere to park safely.
issue as such, just plain dirty, crammed, traffic chaos. Nowhere to park safely.
We stopped at the Tea Castle, a brand new magnificant structure owned by a local tea magnate, Mr Mlsesn, had a cuppa and bought lots of tea bags of different types. Very nice place. We could not find Mr Dilmah's plantations which was a bit disappointing. However Mr Mlesna's tea is very good.
We have had a great time in Sri Lanka, laughed alot, wondered alot, and achieved our objectives, visited the tea plantations and saw elephants and other wildlife. We are now putting the boat into sailing order and hope to clear out on Thursday morning (no doubt another entertaining session with officialdom and Mr Customs man having a final crack for the whiskey when he comes back to remove the bonded sticker he put on our hard liquor). Next stop the Northern Maldives for some rest and relaxation and some swimming, and to recover.
Phew....All for now
P&B
P&B
