We apologise, we are getting worse writing these blogs, its a month since we last tickled the keyboard. Our only excuse is we have been thoroughly captivated immersing ourselves in country #16 on our meanders.... . Egypt, land of Antiquity, Pharaohs, Tombs, Pyramids, Temples and ancient civilizations beyond any simple measure of comprehension to mere mortal sailors.
In contrast Sailing north up the Red Sea into Egyptian waters from Sudan we reached a spot off the Egyptian coast commonly called Dolphin Reef where as the name implies dolphins abound.
In contrast Sailing north up the Red Sea into Egyptian waters from Sudan we reached a spot off the Egyptian coast commonly called Dolphin Reef where as the name implies dolphins abound.
Pic Dolphin Reef
The reef is mostly submerged at both high and low tide and as we sailed towards the reef all we could see was a flotilla of large and small boats anchored as if on a painted ocean. As we got closer the outline of the surrounding reefs just under or just breaking the surface became clearer and we found our way through to
anchor in flat water in the center of a very big beautiful white sand bottomed lagoon.
We were here solely to swim with the pods of dolphins that inhabit the reef and planned an overnight stop and swim. We departed 5 days later !! as the place just grew on us with the snorkelling and swimming with the dolphins just such a treat. Who does not like dolphins... they are amongst the prettiest sleekest mammals so we could not help but dive in whenever we could to join them. Each morning they would return to the lagoon following their evening at sea feeding outside the reef. They seemingly enjoyed the company of humans and allowed us to swim among them freely and they among us. It was one of those special experiences. One cruise yacht stayed 3 weeks.
Big white 80/120ft long white mini cruisers carrying 15/30 mostly European divers and snorkellers would anchor for 2/4 days and the dolphins seemed more than happy with this endless stream of human invaders. On arrival we anchored near a particularly flash white cruise boat and P flippantly suggested we could enquire if we could buy dinner aboard to give B a break. Would you believe the next day they came across and invited us to come over that evening for sundowners. Turns out the guests were all French with one token Brit couple, all living in Monaco and Nice and they ask us to stay for dinner.
Next day we joined them and their resident dolphin expert for dolphin swimming including lessons in dolphin etiquette to maximise the experience. We returned the hospitality with B making morning tea and a big bake of pikelets with jam & uht cream which went down a treat.
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| Med Moored Port Ghalib |
We sailed from Dolphin Reef to Port Ghalib. The wind was continuously strong from the NNW, the direction we were going, and the sea state typical Red Sea - short big swells that suddenly slow the boat. Motoring rather than sailing means bashing into these winds and seas. Sailing means a smoother ride (sort of) but
involves tacking out towards the middle and then back in, large zig zags as shown by the track on the chartplotter, so takes twice as long and twice the distance.
involves tacking out towards the middle and then back in, large zig zags as shown by the track on the chartplotter, so takes twice as long and twice the distance.
We formally cleared into Egypt at Port Ghalib and had our first taste of modernity for some months at this massive new resort and marina development on the southern Red Sea coast of Egypt. This place is on a marsa (inlet) on the edge of the desert with its own international airport handling wide body jets from
all over Europe and even the Philippine Presidential jet flew in whilst we were there. They have built their own power station, sewage treatment and salt to fresh desalination plant so its totally self sufficient. It also sports it's own wrecked yacht at the entrance to the marina, a German who came in at night with no engine in 25 knots of wind and now is arguing over the huge fine the authorities wish to impose on him for damaging the reef.
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| A sad expensive tale |
We berthed on the main boulevard Med style with the stern onto the dock and the bow connected to a mooring. For the first time since Thailand we connected up to power and water and were able to run all our systems including the washing machine. No wonder 8 days flew by even if for the last 3 we were both grounded well and truly with some sort of Egyptian tummy eruption....to put it mildly. We feel lucky to have got through Indo, Asia, Sri Lanka and Yemen etc bug free only to be flattened in Egypt.
Hurghada  |
| Entering Hurghada Marina |
We elected to do an overnight motoring hop to Hurghada even though the wind and waves were not fun. Hurghada is the center of the Egyptian dive industry which is simply huge and based around the large number of islands and reefs in the crystal clear waters of the Red Sea adjacent to this port. As a consequence there are a large number of hotels and a tourist shopping and services center that is entertaining to walk around particularly of an evening.
With Europeans being the customer base everything is open until the wee small hours. Parked up in a good marina with good security we decide this is the spot to leave Muskie for some eagerly awaited land travel.
With Europeans being the customer base everything is open until the wee small hours. Parked up in a good marina with good security we decide this is the spot to leave Muskie for some eagerly awaited land travel.
Land Tour Observations
Time for immersing in the ancient Egyptian culture with a land trip to visit the upper Nile River Valley, Luxor, Valley of the Kings and Tuts Tomb etc etc. We elected to take a local air-con bus 250km inland to Luxor and spend a few nights at the recommended 3 star Hotel Emilio with a splendid rooftop pool and outdoor restaurant overlooking Luxor Temple, the Nile and the Valley of Kings in the distance. Even the bus trip through coastal mountains and desert to the brilliantly fertile plains beside the Nile was a visual treat.
It was harvest time in the fields and the methods are still very traditional with those ever present hard working little donkeys popular and clearly still efficient. You can use a donkey all day in the fields then use it to trot into the village in the evening or go shopping. You don't need to worry about fuel spikes, you don't need to pay registration or a licence to ride and all ages can take the reins. We even saw five year olds in control. Since Yemen we've been getting to like donkeys!!! but must admit they would not cut it on the Auckland
Harbour Bridge or going up the Ngauranga Gorge.
The use of irrigation canals to spread the Nile waters is very impressive and probably thousands of years old. The land use is comprehensive with every fruit and vegetable you can think of being grown. We saw wheat barley, lucerne, sugarcane, strawberries, grapefruit, kiwifruit, peppers, nuts etc. They have a dairy industry and even a good wine industry and its not a bad drop. In preparation for Europe's renowned prices we have stocked up on some pleasant whites and rose plus their beer, Sakara Gold and Stella is as good as the best.
Everythings BC
BC Definition 1: Bribery & Corruption
So far Egypt and her people have been more pleasant than we were expecting despite the B&C. Everything here is B&C for tourists and locals. Egypt is a country that created civilisation as we know it along with so many discoveries and firsts for humanity, yet Egypt is sort of still back there at the back of the pack.
If in doubt ask a taxi driver - we hired a taxi driver for the day to take us out to the Valley of the Kings and we very respectfully asked him about baksheesh. Over lunch in a restaurant he lowered his voice and said that bribes & corruption are endemic at all levels for everyone and hold Egypt back.
Relating to our travels he said simply getting a passport, opening a bank account, wanting to transfer money in or out or just travelling overseas would involve questions from the authorities and a necessary "gift". Another example, the best students don't necessarily get to study or become academics or professionals. Degrees or certificates can be "acquired" by payment of a "gift" at the end of the study period, even if the student has not passed the course.
Others told us that wages in Egypt are so low that baksheesh is accepted as the standard way to upsize earnings.....puts the Western concept of minimum wage laws into context!!.
Others told us that wages in Egypt are so low that baksheesh is accepted as the standard way to upsize earnings.....puts the Western concept of minimum wage laws into context!!.
It was disconcerting to wander around town or tourist attractions and not be able to speak to a local as even making pleasant conversation or asking a simple question would result in the hand being held out with the request for a tip or gift. Even eye contact would get the frenzy started.
Buying things/services (even a taxi ride in horse and cart) generates some real theatre as prices are negotiated and baksheesh wheedled out of you. They want your money and stop at nothing trying it on...they are masters at it but with our exchange rate we have to be firm. We often say "not american" and they do a double take and back off.
BC Definition 2: Before Christ
At anything up to 5000 + years old Ancient Egyptian culture is more BC than AD. That's hard to come to grips with but when walking around above and below ground you soon get to feel that you are treading on special ground. The monuments and temples and tombs with their story carving artwork and hieroglyphics in stone are truly impressive and we were most impressed by the colorful painted stone some of which is still vivid if out of the direct sunlight. The peak of the Pharaohs and their Priests power was 2000 years BC.
You've got to marvel at it all.... for us Tutankamon's Tomb and his actual mummified body and Hatshepsut's Temple were highlights in the Valley of the Kings, whilst the mammoth Karnak Temples and the Museums in Luxor were highlights in town. We visited Karnak both at night for a spectacular 'Light and Sound' show among the ruins and then in the day. The interesting thing about the ruins is that clearly the Pharaohs and Kings and Queens built over the top or around their predecessors in an effort to honour their gods and in some cases even plundered their forebears tombs to enhance their own.
All in all a pretty self-idolising lot we thought. Cremation sounds much fairer and better for the planet. War and looting has sadly taken its toll on many treasures and some major monuments or bits thereof have found their way around the world. Can't help but think the decent thing would be for those to be returned to Egypt.
Today
We have left Hurghada and are currently at anchor at Bluff Point 27.40N 33.48E at the top of the Red Sea at the entrance to the Gulf of Suez waiting for the 30 knot breeze and wave patterns to drop before slipping the 150 miles north to Port Suez to enter the southern end of the Suez Canal. So far we have been here 2 nights. Its pretty cool too, we have put on two T-shirts in the evening and we are asking ourselves why we are heading further north to winter in Europe.
Its only mid May and we feel like we have really achieved some mileage under the keel compared with last year as we measure crossing the Indian Ocean, the pirate infested Gulf of Aden and now the Red Sea as milestones. We plan to stop halfway through the canal for a few days at Ismailia and go off to do Cairo and the Pyramids. The Luxor visit has really got the juices going and we have purchased a few books to enhance the knowledge. We will be real Egyptologists when we slip out the northern end of the canal into the Med.
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