Hello. Its over a week since our last update. We can only attribute the delay to the heat - and it is HOT. The battery on the barometer/thermometer needs replacing so we can't say what the temperature is, however it is 1915 in the evening of the 25th of August and we have all the windows open and the fans going and the sweat is pouring off us. Not exactly lady-like but then as Peter says, he ain't no lady!.
Worse for Peter is that he had his head stuck in the hot engine compartment yet again working on the recalcitrant stern gland fitting. It is still leaking and has to be adjusted constantly. We need a more permanent solution and will revisit a permanent solution in Bali or Singapore. Yet another case of WIP, work
in progress.
in progress.
We currently have all the portholes and hatches covered with insect screens and a big mesh awning draped over the cockpit (an insect screen for an outdoor umbrella from Bunnings Darwin) as we are anchored in a nice bay tucked behind an island and surrounded by mangroves, perfect for mozzies.
There are about 10 rally boats anchored in the immediate area and more close by. Allegedly the bay is so named because a family of monkeys was spotted on the beach but we do not hold out much hope of seeing any monkeys as the area has been burnt off. This burning off is a complete mystery to us. The Indonesians
seem fixated with burning anything that grows (and eating anything that moves).
Whilst this burn off was apparently originally to do with shifting cultivation it seems that nowadays the burn off is just to burn off. Cliff faces, rugged hillsides, little islands, anything is burned, with no apparent cultivation or grazing to justify the attack. We along with fellow crusiers have been disappointed at the lack of bird life and wildlife.
seem fixated with burning anything that grows (and eating anything that moves).
Whilst this burn off was apparently originally to do with shifting cultivation it seems that nowadays the burn off is just to burn off. Cliff faces, rugged hillsides, little islands, anything is burned, with no apparent cultivation or grazing to justify the attack. We along with fellow crusiers have been disappointed at the lack of bird life and wildlife.
Anyway, to recap, starting from our last blog reported anchorage. We left our lovely anchorage with its clear water, pearl farms, sand cay and burnt off islands, on Monday 18 August and sailed to T.G. Gedong at 08 04.68S 122 50.71E where we anchored at 1501 hours in 23m of water, drifting back over 35m. There
were about 8 boats in the anchorage and the usual curious locals, particularly children to whom we gave out stuffed toys.
were about 8 boats in the anchorage and the usual curious locals, particularly children to whom we gave out stuffed toys.
The next morning we left at 0645, motoring for an hour and a half then sailing in 10 kts breeze to Geliting, just east of Maumere, anchoring at 08 38.03S 122 18.49E. Bintang ashore (ie local beer, really good) followed by dinner at "SeaWorld" a Catholic Church run restaurant/bar which does good work for
disadvantaged children with the profits.
disadvantaged children with the profits.
Next day (Wednesday 20 August) was the offical welcoming ceremony at the anchorage and the Kiwis were asked to do the formal thank you to the hosts (yachts Musketelle, Moon Mist, Solan, Nowadays, Pied a Mer, Catala). This we did in style (if we may say so ourselves) - Peter gave the formal thank you speech,
which was translated paragraph by paragraph and went down very well (the Indonesians like long speeches and Peter's was just right and addressed tourism development which is close to their hearts).
which was translated paragraph by paragraph and went down very well (the Indonesians like long speeches and Peter's was just right and addressed tourism development which is close to their hearts).
Then we did a powhiri, Rob on Moon Mist as the proud Maori Warrior with the Honorable Regent* accepting the challenge, followed by the haka (hmm yes well the timing left a little to be desired but the spirit was there) and then all singing Poekarekare Ana.
*Note Indonesia is divided up into Regencies (ie Provinces) and the head man is the Honorable Rengent with associated minders - security guards, protocol person, chauffeur etc etc.
Next day Barbara spent the day on the boat trying to burn music onto CDs (finally achieved after reading the manual umpteen times) and Peter went ashore to watch and participate in the canoe racing by the locals (as in wooden dugout canoes with no freeboard). After capsizing once, Peter and Grant from SY Nowadays (Hastings) came fourth out of ten. Theory has it that if they had knelt in the canoe instead of sitting in it they may have done even better.
Friday 22 August we went into Maumere to go to the bank and the internet cafe. We went with the cruisers off Catala, Pied a Mer and Moon Mist. Catching a bemo is a fraught experience, we do not know what the correct local cost is and when we ask before we get on, we get told one thing and then when paying the price has mysteriously doubled or quadrupled. We also only got 3/4 of the way to Maumere and had to change bemos (not clear why - our first one may have been unlicensed or there may be some bemo mafia controlling who can take whom where). This resulted in a "discussion" with the bemo driver which a local policeman resolved by determing the fare (considerably less than was being demanded) and we then got another bemo into town.
We went to the bank, big queue for the cash point machine and then spent 2 hours on a pathetically slow internet connection doing about 20 minutes work. This was followed by a walk towards the market, past
drains jammed with rubbish, past pigs checking out the rubbish, past pretty yucky type living environments - but lots of children calling out "Hello Meester" or "Hello Mrss" and "My name is" - by which they actually mean "what is your name".
drains jammed with rubbish, past pigs checking out the rubbish, past pretty yucky type living environments - but lots of children calling out "Hello Meester" or "Hello Mrss" and "My name is" - by which they actually mean "what is your name".
Couldn't find the market and decided to head back to Geliting and stop at the town where we had had to change bemo and where we had seen a vege market. Much less bemo hassle getting back to the market town. Bought tomatoes and a cabbage, plus eggs, beer and cans of coke. Then caught motor bikes back to the anchorage - ie Peter on the back of one bike and me on another plus beer, coke, veg and eggs. By the time we got back to the absolute sanctuary of Musketelle we were exhausted!
On Saturday we left the anchorage and after motoring for the first hour and a half had a good sail to TG Batu Boga, near Dondo village, 08 27.62S 121 56.57E. Anchored in 24m but quite close to fringing reef. Next day, Sunday, we snorkeled, had visitors for morning tea, relaxed and had sundowners, a very strenuous day.
Today, Monday 25 August, we left TG Batu Boga at 0730 intially motoring and then when a breeze came in, having a nice sail the 57 or so miles to Monkey Beach.
Barbara made pizza for lunch (with proper pizza dough - at least as proper as one gets from Alison Holst's Bread Book) and a small white loaf of bread. We got to the anchorage at 1640 and had good waypoints to guide us past the reefs. We anchored in 20m of water. Anchoring depth has been one of the surprises in this part of Indonesia - it is either very deep or over coral reefs - and we prefer the deep bit as it nerve wracking to a.) try to get a hold on the coral (and very bad for the coral) and b.) then swing with the tide/wind and find the spare 1.5m under the keel isn't there any more compliments of a protruding coral bommie.
Well thats all for now, time for dinner. Hope all is well in NZ, Aussie and France.
