Hello armchair sailors...
We have sailed east along the north coast of Flores just 70 miles since we last communicated. Before leaving Monkey Beach we had a good snorkel and cruise around the landlocked inlets viewing the coral formations often just a metre below the dinghy. The two nights we were at anchor at Monkey the local fisherman
positioned their big fishing platforms not far from us for the nights fish killing. The boats consist of a narrow canoe about 20 metres long with pencil thin outriggers 15 metres on each side all linked with a woven matting giving a rather incongruous unseaworthy platform 20m x 30m overall. The thing is powered to the fishing site by a Chinese diesel motor without muffler which means you can hear them coming from 50 miles off !! Once anchored they fire up a small petrol generator (like you see at Bunnings) and then proceed to turn night into
day with a zillion conventional 230v bulbs as a means of attracting the fish. And there are tens of these platforms in view most evenings. The fish barelystand a chance but at least its more environmentally friendly than the methods used up until 10 years ago when dynamiting and cyanide killing was apparently the rage !!!
We have sailed east along the north coast of Flores just 70 miles since we last communicated. Before leaving Monkey Beach we had a good snorkel and cruise around the landlocked inlets viewing the coral formations often just a metre below the dinghy. The two nights we were at anchor at Monkey the local fisherman
positioned their big fishing platforms not far from us for the nights fish killing. The boats consist of a narrow canoe about 20 metres long with pencil thin outriggers 15 metres on each side all linked with a woven matting giving a rather incongruous unseaworthy platform 20m x 30m overall. The thing is powered to the fishing site by a Chinese diesel motor without muffler which means you can hear them coming from 50 miles off !! Once anchored they fire up a small petrol generator (like you see at Bunnings) and then proceed to turn night into
day with a zillion conventional 230v bulbs as a means of attracting the fish. And there are tens of these platforms in view most evenings. The fish barelystand a chance but at least its more environmentally friendly than the methods used up until 10 years ago when dynamiting and cyanide killing was apparently the rage !!!
Talking about environmental issues disposing of waste in Indonesia is a majorproblem. And it is a real problem for us as cruisers as we are generallyspeaking an earth loving bunch. But we all produce waste and attempting to haveit disposed of satisfactorily is more than a problem in itself. You may recall we told you of the experience in Kupang where the 'dinghy boys' offered to dispose of it only to see it floating passed the yacht the next day having been economically filtered. We break our refuse down into animal vegetable and
plastic/glass/cans with only the vegetable going over the side at sea. Only in some ports are they interested in the cans and bottles. So you get the drift of our problem - simply adding it to the mountains of rubbish deposited by the Indonesians in the drains, waterways and sea does not appeal.
plastic/glass/cans with only the vegetable going over the side at sea. Only in some ports are they interested in the cans and bottles. So you get the drift of our problem - simply adding it to the mountains of rubbish deposited by the Indonesians in the drains, waterways and sea does not appeal.
Over the last week we have had some very good anchorages with brilliant snorkelling around some pristine reefs. The highlight was an island anchorage at Bodo Gili 08.22S 120.01E where we anchored in 23m of crsytal clear water and swam the 500m to view the reefs and walk on the white coral sand beach. And
guess what, this is where we saw our first wild monkeys ranging happily on the beach at sunset and low tide. Turns out these guys rely on a shellfish diet (nodoubt due to the absence of vegeation) and have perfected the art of cracking shellfish for a feed. We spent much time focusing the binoculars on these fellows going about their business including numerous babies too. Come dark we could hear them screeching in the trees as sleeping arrangements were being settled. Yes we loved our two nights at Bodo Gili.
guess what, this is where we saw our first wild monkeys ranging happily on the beach at sunset and low tide. Turns out these guys rely on a shellfish diet (nodoubt due to the absence of vegeation) and have perfected the art of cracking shellfish for a feed. We spent much time focusing the binoculars on these fellows going about their business including numerous babies too. Come dark we could hear them screeching in the trees as sleeping arrangements were being settled. Yes we loved our two nights at Bodo Gili.
From Bod Gili it was just 20 miles around to our present anchorage at Labuan Badjo. And what an eventful little passage it was with the engine alarm going off in a narrow coral reef infested passage to tell us Henry was over-heating....cut the engine and raised the sails to tack the final 10 miles and that was fine. Cause could be 3 options...out of oil, cooling water or fanbelt. Just 12 months new and regularly checked by P it was the fanbelt. Fitted another one on so hopefully just a dud belt.
Lubuan Badjo is a grubby, smelly fishing port and tourist hotspot that relies on its location as the western most port on the island of Flores and as the jumping off point to visit the the famous Komdo Dragons !!! Yesterday we went into town in the dinghy and as dusk settled tried to start the Mercury to return to
Musketelle. No joy. Motor simply refused to turn over and we were not in rowing distance. Big problem. Then along came some locals in a big dink from one of the big dive boats. They agreed to tow us back to Musketelle, a couple of miles, in the dark, no lights, past the fishing boats. That was really nice of them and
they did not ask for any money but of course we gave them plenty of rupes for their trouble.
Musketelle. No joy. Motor simply refused to turn over and we were not in rowing distance. Big problem. Then along came some locals in a big dink from one of the big dive boats. They agreed to tow us back to Musketelle, a couple of miles, in the dark, no lights, past the fishing boats. That was really nice of them and
they did not ask for any money but of course we gave them plenty of rupes for their trouble.
Today we are refuelling and restocking with fruit and vege before our leap into the unknown with the dragons at Rinca and Komodo Islands just 20 miles south of our current position. You will be pleased to know we are gettingsome great digital pics but not pleased to learn we have yet to work out how to upload them to this blog. Continue to watch this space for the next exciting installment.....meeting the dragons !!.
P&B
P&B
